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It been a while since I had a wheel off the NB8B and I've forgotten how I removed the centre cap without damaging either the paint of the wheel or the plastic of the cap.
Prising the cap off from the outside with a screwdriver looks guaranteed to damage the paint around the cap, and from the inside I've tried to gently lift the little plastic lugs that sit in the groove (and hold the wire 'spring') but without success so far.
Is there an easy way? I can't remember what I did last time.

For most wheels you just tap it out from the inside using the blunt end of a hammer, but then again I don't know anythi9ng about NB8B wheels ...

You don't need to remove them. Leave them alone.

Well, with a bit more fiddling I have managed to pop them off from the inside without damaging the plastic too much.
I used a very fine point flat-blade screwdriver and applied pressure to the bottom edge of one of the four 'lugs' whilst simultaneously pushing the cap out with the other hand.
Maybe you could just push them out with the rubber handle of a hammer but I would be a bit worried about breaking the plastic lugs.
Anyhow I see replacement ones are available on Ebay for $25. a set (from Hong Kong) so I guess you just have a go and if you break it, buy a new set.
I am going to order a set whilst they are still freely available.

Bruce - I was thinking they need to be removed by the tyre service people to fix a puncture or fit new tyres (got a puncture) - not so?

tyre service person will remove them when they put them on the balancing machine. they will just poke them out with a screwdriver from the inside. they wont be a delicate/precious with them as you were. nor do they need to be.

You are correct. Tyre guys need hub access.

Make sure they use tape-on weights for neatness.

Note for noobie racers: they melt and fall off once you start to learn how to use the brakes effectively on the track. Remove them and save them for later.

PRR - I am 'delicate' and 'precious' with everything to do with my car which is why it looks like new even though it is 15 yrs old.
When I drop the wheel in tomorrow the boss will be asked to note that there isn't a scratch on the wheel and that's the way I would like it back, please.

Rocky wrote:When I drop the wheel in tomorrow the boss will be asked to note that there isn't a scratch on the wheel and that's the way I would like it back, please.

Sounds like you're meticulous with your car. If you know the boss pretty well, then leaving a note is a good idea. If not, I suggest taking high resolution photos of each wheel prior to getting any work done so you have proof, and writing a letter of quality assurance with services provided.

I had a poor experience with a KTAS shop, had purchased a new set of 4 Goodyear tyres when they had a promotion, but the manager okayed me to pay IN FULL first and take the tyres away, and bring them back when I was ready to fit them. About 8 months passed until I had little tread left on my existing tyres, so I called them up to arrange a time for the tyres to be installed. My rims were near perfect condition, zero curb rash in the 3 years of driving on them, only tiny stone chips on some of the spokes.

Dropped the car off to them, came back 1 hour later to find all 4 of my Enkei rims scratched to buggery. All four rims scratched past clear and paint right down to the alloys. Tyre fitter must have used a file to mount the tyres on... abysmal effort and care used it seems.

I was shocked, mortified, gobsmacked, tick all three boxes.

I asked the manager to come take a look at what their employees did. He looked at it, then stared back at me, shrugged and put forth a solution of giving me a can of matching colour spray paint so I can redo them myself.



Appalling response.



Without proof to show, of the condition of my wheels before the damage, I didn't have a case to take to insurance.

I am inclined to agree with PRR- these things are meant to be handled i.e. tyre changes. If people are concerned then get the tyre/ wheel front man to check the wheels with "you" before doing the job. On some cars you might even need to point our odd foibles like early Alfas where the wheel nuts on the pasenger side ( if memory serves me) unscrew the opposite way. Ouch if the gun is set wrong!!

Ha! May not be getting the puncture repaired - might be up for a set of new tyres instead.
Took it to Bob Jane who politely declined to repair it as the tyre was manufactured in Nov 2005.
This is the problem with cars that do very low mileages - the tyres are ancient before they are worn out.
The original tyres were only half-worn when I replaced them at 6 yrs old.
The rubber looks in good condition but it is a bit hard when you press on the sidewalls.
At least I have had 35K out of these - I was planning to replace in 5K anyhow.

This will be something worth communicating with your type shop in the future.

The problem I see is that the tyres were manufactured in 2005. You brought them 6 years ago. So they were already 4 years old when your put them on your cars. No body should be buying 4 year old tyres.

You need to have a discussion to your tyre shop about getting something fitted that is of much newer stock/age.

I recently got some new tyres fitted to one of my cars 3 weeks ago. 4215 is the manufacture date. We currenty are in week 10 of '16. They were 17 weeks old.

PRR - I may not have explained that very well.
The current tyres (Michelin PP2s) were Nov 2005 manufacture and have been on the car since July 2006 for about 33,000Klms.
It was actually the original tyres (Bridgestone Turanza) that came on the car that were on for 6 years - only half worn for 25,000Klms.
I would be pretty upset if any tyre shop fitted tyres that were more than 6mths old.

I am tossing up between a new set of Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin at $180.ea (4 for price of 3 deal) and Michelin Pilot Sport 3 at $202.ea.
(Price-wise, remember I live up in the sticks)
Any thoughts?

I would just patch the old tyre myself. Buy one of the tyre repair kits.