Attn NB racers: front neg camber question(s)

[Matty]

I've read that increasing the castor angle naturally increases the negative camber.

Opposite actually - increasing castor decreases available camber. Quite often you have to dial castor back to maintain camber angles in the MX5.

Aside from the adjustment limitations CT mentions, increasing caster increases dynamic camber, ie the camber that the wheels actually take when the steering is turned. (Imagine a Harley - long raked forks = lots of caster - with the handlebars turned. Imagine how much the front wheel is now leaning into the turn.)

[NMX516]

Well I got the SuperPro adjustable jobbies fitted today... Managed to squeeze -1.5 out of them. Not too bad a result. Certainly an improvement though.

[rascal]

What camber settings front and rear do people run on their track cars? (I have a track only NB8A)

Apologies for asking this same question in the wheel forum as well. Only new here and not sure which was the best one to ask it in.

[Matty]

What camber settings front and rear do people run on their track cars? (I have a track only NB8A)

Apologies for asking this same question in the wheel forum as well. Only new here and not sure which was the best one to ask it in.

Depends on what tyres you use.

You should be using a pyrometer to determine the correct alignment and tyre pressure.

[rascal]

Toyo R888s 205/50 on 15x7 Buddy Clubs.

I do have a pyrometer to set it more accurately once at the track but wanted a ballpark figure to start with rather than waste a track day if std settings were/are too far out.

[NMX516]

Back in for a final alignment yesterday, pre Morgan Park. Managed to get -2 degrees on the front!

[CT]

It's tyre/wheel dependent and geometry dependent. Slicks and treads are different. Different brand and or construction tyres are different. Most slick cars start around -4 deg all round, most tread cars start around -2deg all round but you need to adjust accordingly as per Matty's thread above.