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Squishy Clutch?? HELP!!
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 6:30 pm
by STV
Howdy Folks..
the other day, i opened up my little beast, jumped in, started her up etc etc
BUT... when i depressed the clutch to select reverse, the transmission wouldnt engage. i then tried to put her into any other gear, and none of them could successfully be selected.
i eventually managed to get out of my driveway, but it seems as though my clucth is failing to dis-engage the engine from the tranny...
what could be causing this?
is there anything i can do to fix it?
how much will it cost to repair

?
Thanks folks..
STV
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:52 pm
by rodent
Does pumping the pedal for some time help?
Check your clutch fluid level (it's the cylindrical thingy mounted to the drivers' side of the firewall). If fluid level is still ok, then it's either your master cylinder or slave cylinder that's on it's way out - my money's on the slave as it seems to be a fairly common problem.
Replacement slave is $80-$100ish and master is about double that, plus paying your mech to put it in and replace the hydraulic fluid. You can also try to rebuild it for much less.
Hope this helps

jonno.
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 9:40 pm
by JBT
My guesses
The cause: Hydraulic failure
The fix: Repair or replace clutch slave cylinder - usual suspect. May also need to look at the clutch master cylinder too but you could be lucky.
The cost: DIY $20 to $250 depending on the problem(s). Mechanic $100 - $500 depending on labour/parts needed which will depend on the actual problem(s).
Temporary fix: Fill clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and be prepared to pump the pedal each time you need to change gear.
Prevention: Change/flush hydraulic fluid every 18 months to 2 years.
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:21 pm
by STV
Thanks alot guys.
I checked the (i think) clutch slave resovoir (tiny canister?) and it was totally empty!
Took a BI-ARTCH of a trip to the servo to get some brake/clutch fluid...
The resovoir only took about 100ml?? if that?!
It seemed like a tiny amount, but it made enough of a difference to make the drive home heaps better...
I still seem to need to pump the clutch, but at least i can drive!
Car will be fully serviced thru the week (i will take it to a pro as i dont have the time, tools skills or patience to do it for myself!).
The next Syd dodgy day i will be there to see how you guys do everything, and will start to do my own stuff from then on!
thnaks again
STV
Re:
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:51 am
by JBT
happi_steve wrote:Car will be fully serviced thru the week (i will take it to a pro as i dont have the time, tools skills or patience to do it for myself!).
Get them to completely flush your brake system too or you could have a similar problem with the brakes..............but with more dire consequences

.
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:56 am
by bruce
My mini once had I think the same problem. The fluid was leaking into the cabin under the carpet - I couldn't figure out where it was all going as I kept topping it up. I wonder where yours is going?
Re:
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:01 pm
by JBT
bruce wrote:I wonder where yours is going?
Onto the road if it's the slave cylinder (90% of the cases with an MX-5)
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:16 pm
by STV
after i topped the fluid up on Sunday night (it is now Monday evening), the resovoir still shows that it is full, but the clutch is still playing up something shocking! I have been booked in to get t done on Wed morning...
i can last that long...
where it all went initially... (looks confused and shrugs shoulders...)
I will definately get them to bleed the brakes as well...
i am going to get the engine serviced, the clutch repaired/serviced, the gearbox and diff done too...
THEN if anything goes wrong with it....
Thanks again for the help
STV
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:27 pm
by JBT
The reason it still feels horrible is because the hydraulic lines are full of air now. That's why you'll need to pump it a bit prior to each gear change until it is fixed and bled.
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:09 pm
by STV
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh....
Is there a DIY way to bleed the clutch??
I have heard of people bleeding their brakes for the same purpose, but i honestly had no idea that it was even necessary to be done on a clutch...
if it is possible... what tools are needed, and realistically, how difficult is it??
thanks JBT, my brain is slowely starting to take in more motoring knowledge from this forum!
STV
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:37 pm
by Boags
Hi Steve,
You can get to the bleed nipple through the drivers side front wheel well. Take the wheel off to give yourself some room, and you'll need a length of tube to go over the nipple, a 10mm ring spanner and a friend to pump the clutch pedal...
Put the ring spanner over the bleed nipple, then put the pipe over it.
Get your mate to pump the clutch a few times then hold his foot flat to the floor. Release the bleed nipple, let the fluids (and air bubbles) escape, tighten the bleed nipple, and repeat several times until no more air bubbles come out, and only new clean fluid comes.
*Make sure the fluid reservoir in the engine bay doesn't get empty, or you will be pumping air through again.* The clutch reservoir is on the drivers of the firewall.
Good luck.
Boags

Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:18 pm
by STV
oooookkkkkk...
I dropped Seneorita to the mechanics this morning. i got a call a bit later and he said that he would like to replace both the master and the slave.
I thought the proce was reasonable, so i said go ahead.
Picked her up at about lunchish (great service) and drove her back to work to finish off the day.
On the way home, enjoying my new-found cylinders, the clutch pedal went seriously limp, had no feeling AT ALL and did SFA!!
I rolled her to the side of the road and called the mech dude that did the job today...
Apparently, there is a pin which joins the master to the slave cylinder, and it had completely come out from where it should have been!
he did a quick road side job, and i got home... will be returning the car to him tomorrow so that he can ensure that it doesnt happen again...
Any hints on what may have caused this??
(sorry about the long post!)
STV
Re:
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:47 pm
by JBT
happi_steve wrote:Apparently, there is a pin which joins the master to the slave cylinder, and it had completely come out from where it should have been!
Any hints on what may have caused this??
There is no pin joining the master and slave - just a hydraulic line.
There is a pin that pokes out the back of the slave cylinder (41-341 in the diagram below) that engages the clutch release lever. If it came out you'd get those symptoms. I'm stuffed if I know how it could come out unless it was never properly engaged when they fitted the slave cylinder.

I'd be interested to hear the outcome. Where did he go to on the car to repair it on the road side - under the car, under the bonnet or in the footwell?
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:11 pm
by STV
Thanks for the info JBT,
the mech dude reached in underneath the drivers-side front tyre well.
he got me to pump the clutch a few times, while he reached in under with a pair of pliars to re-insert the 'pin'.
it definately was part 41-341 that he put back in, i watched him do it.
i am glad that he came out to do it on the spot, but still pissed that it happened at all...
I will let you all know the outcome of this tomorrow..
STV
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:22 pm
by sabretooth
I'm amazed that it managed to come out. In theory it only should do that if the pivot arm is bent or the slave cylinder isn't mounted properly.