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Well - seems I spoke too soon.

Still having issues getting my clutch set up and working right.

I resealed the master cylinder on the weekend, but the pickup point is still r-i-g-h-t at the bottom of the pedal travel, and after trying to adjust that last night, now it seems my slave cylinder might be slipping, although it is showing no signs of leaking.

How little 'free' pedal travel should there generally be before you can feel the hydraulic pressure in the clutch pedal? Is it bad to have it there straight away or might this result in there always being a bit of pressure on the clutch arm? The last thing I want is for it to be effectively 'riding' even when my foot is off the clutch, or for there to not be the proper clamping pressure so it slips.

sounds exactly like the same problem that paul had when he did his clutch

cant remember how he fixed it though it did go on for some time before it was fixed.

I don't see how the slave could slip. It either has air in the system or it moves as far as the Master dictates?

Is the system air free?
I would think about 10mm travel.


Jules

Ahh, I take it you got the master rebuild kit fine then.

I've probably got about 10-15mm of travel in the pedal before it starts pushing on the master.

When you push on the pedal, how long is it before you feel any significant resistance?

If you push on the pedal slowly with light pressure, does the pedal slowly sink to the ground?

Did you do anything different to what I did when rebuilding the master?

You'll need an assistant for this, but how much pedal travel is it until you see the slave cylinder pushing on the pivot arm?

Also, Paul's clutch is still a little rooted. I had a drive of it a couple of months back and it's a prick to change gears with.

\"Sometimes\"......after the flywheel is machined you can get this problem. It is caused by too much wear on the flywheel causing the clutch to be unable to operate correctly.

I remember a Laser we did a clutch on and the problem occured. The boss at the time made me put a flat washer between the pressure plate and the flywheel on each bolt. It fixed it, but I don't know at what cost.

Jules

sabretooth wrote:Ahh, I take it you got the master rebuild kit fine then.

When you push on the pedal, how long is it before you feel any significant resistance?

If you push on the pedal slowly with light pressure, does the pedal slowly sink to the ground?

Did you do anything different to what I did when rebuilding the master?

You'll need an assistant for this, but how much pedal travel is it until you see the slave cylinder pushing on the pivot arm?

I follwed the Sabretooth guide exactly - I set it up last night adjusting the piston travel and pushing on it by hand so that I could feel the piston start to act against the master cylinder with as little travel as possible.

It ended up though that the clutch wasn't disengaging properly at all - getting a minute amount of slip, hence my thoughts that the slave (previously resealed) might also be leaking a bit. $36 for a replacement slave (from Mania if they ever answer the phone) might be the best option for my next step - I have a reseal kit for the slave, but might save it a go reconditioned.....

Arthur,

A rebuild will ony take an hour. I'd do that first and see how you go?
or try MX5Plus for an old one to test.

Jules

jules wrote:Arthur,

A rebuild will ony take an hour. I'd do that first and see how you go?
or try MX5Plus for an old one to test.

Jules

Yeah - I know - I've got the rebuild kit - just that I've done it once so I was wondering about the effectiveness of a second time. Might investigate how much to get it resleved.....

Oh, so you've already done the slave rebuild. I thought you had only done the master.

Jules

jules wrote:Oh, so you've already done the slave rebuild. I thought you had only done the master.

Jules

I rebuilt the slave once before - about 2 and a half years ago..... I checked it on the weekend when I did the master slave rebuild and it didn't look to be leaking.....

Well unless it's jammed in there (which you could diagnose faily easily), there shouldn't be a leak without fluid loss.

Is it jammed? If it isn't then I would still lean towards air?

Jules

jules wrote:Well unless it's jammed in there (which you could diagnose faily easily), there shouldn't be a leak without fluid loss.

Is it jammed? If it isn't then I would still lean towards air?

Jules

There shouldn't be air in it as I bled it slowly and thoroughly on the weekend - I'll do the slave reseal, rebleed and go from there.....

Can you get Jen to do the pedal work whilst you bleed?

Jules

Public Holiday in NSW today...........

That's nice Chris.

Jules