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Where to get my DFA dyno tuned, in Melb??

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:14 pm
by green_comet
Hey guys,

All my DFA problems have been fixed, and now im looking for a good dyno tuner in Melbourne to get it all tuned up.

If anyone could recommend a good place, that has maybe tuned with DFA's before, that would be really helpful.

thanks heaps.
Ryan

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:21 pm
by Astroboysoup
im a little stumped.

im thinking its your circuit

how did the test circuit run??? is there any sort of output signal..?

the thing is reset and set to 0?

i need help with the afm VR2

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 6:34 pm
by green_comet
Its runs fine when its just spliced into the input wire, brought up the input numbers and everything. Just when i cut the wire and connected up the input and output, the car aint happy.

When you start the car it runs fine, you hear the dfa click on, the little led comes on, it even brings up the input number on the screen for a fraction of a second. Then the car dies... im lost..

:?

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:02 pm
by Fatty
where did you get your 12v from ?

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:35 pm
by green_comet
I tried the 12v from a few differnt places, some from the ecu, from the stereo acc, even ran a lead straight from the battery. In the end got the same problem..

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 8:03 pm
by Fatty
hmm ok. reason i asked is that i ran into problems when i got my 12v from the ecu. problems went away when i ran it from the blue wire from the ignition. the ecu 12v does not have enough current to drive the backlit lcd display.

so back to basics.

you have tested your circuit on the test bench and confirmed that the input and output are the same? (as in , before programming any tuning changes)

you have intercepted the correct wire ? from memory it is a the red wire seen here? sorry i took this pic a while ago and since i have also got a afm hooked up, i can't remember for certain which wire is which.
Image

also... i found that my relay did not fit into the circuit board properly and i tried to force it in and i think i broke it. so i just hardwired 2 wire jumpers in, in place of the relay. you can see them in the photo above.
the relay is only there for cars that will throw a fault code on startup if the dfa is switched in. luckilly the mx5 is not among this group. therefore i figured that the relay is one less mechanical part to break down, so better off to leave it out and just hard wire it.

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 8:09 pm
by green_comet
awesome ill check it all out... thanks for the help..

All the tests i did were fine, even running off of the adjustable voltage pot worked great..

I did use the red wire from the afm, and ill try running the 12v off the blue wire.

I also found that relay a little hard to get into place, but i managed to get all the pins in eventually.. might try and hardwire like you did..

Here's a picture of the board,

Image

cheers
Ryan

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 8:38 pm
by Fatty
ok , let me know how you go.

one thing tho, you can't solder onto the blue wire. you'll need to use a vampire clip or aligator clip or something like that. this is how i did it... it's pretty ghetto, but it works.

you can see the blue wire there with a white aligator clip clamped onto it. then i solderred 2 red wires onto that to send 12v to my dfa and afm, then wrapped everything in electrical tape.

Image

Re: Jaycar DFA Help!!

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:27 pm
by fastfreddygassit
green_comet wrote:Hey guys, Over the weekend i put together a Jaycar DFA, and Hand controller.


Ryan, I hope you get it all sorted out.......so I can possibly (pretty please :mrgreen: ) borrow your hand controller.......
(which would save me about $70 which will then go to a front lip spoiler :mrgreen: :mrgreen: )
btw, missed you last night...thought you'd been keen for a spur run..

edited for crap spelling

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:32 pm
by Astroboysoup
i just finished benching mine a=nd it looks like it is ready to go.. don't know if i could be bothered installing it right now....

see how i go.. dinner time..

the AFM was a harder job than the DFA and hand controller i recon

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:35 pm
by Fatty
or you can borrow mine freddy.

that offer is open to any of the regular contributors to the forum btw .

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 11:59 am
by green_comet
Anytime you want to borrow it freddy your welcome to, i dont seem to be having much luck with the dfa, but the hand controller works fine.

I think i might lookover the wiring diagram again, and make sure everything is done right. :?

Fatty when you configured yours to run at 0-5v, did you use a digital multimeter to get it perfect? I say this coz i used an analogue mulimeter, so im thinking it might not be spot on 0-5v. Might be causing a problem?!

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:21 pm
by Fatty
good info david. welcome to the forum!
david i would love to see some photos of your dfa turbo set up. the reason i installed my dfa in the first place was to run a turbo, but i have since decided to use a megasquirt for that, so my dfa will be removed from my car soon.

greencomet, yep as david said, i reckon you need to use a digital multimeter to get your calibration spot on. i used a digital multimeter and had it calibrate down to the millivolt. i would offer you a loan of mine, but it has since crapped itself and no longer works. but they are very cheap , you should get yourself one as they are a very handy tool to have.

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:55 pm
by Astroboysoup
yeh i have a very nice multimeter that I used to calibrate the DFA and a variable 30v-0.01v lab power supply. RRP was $299 but I got it for $80 as it was the last of discontinued stock. BARGAIN.

good luck recalibrating

Re:

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:26 pm
by fastfreddygassit
Fatty wrote: the reason i installed my dfa in the first place was to run a turbo, but i have since decided to use a megasquirt for that, so my dfa will be removed from my car soon.

cool :mrgreen:
Do let us know if you wish to part with it $$$$$$ :mrgreen:
well, maybe not that many dollar signs..... :shock: