Let's build an SP ... together.

[Boags]

No1. Teins
No2. Guru LSD
No3. ECU
No4. DRIVE!

This is the treatment NPN's SP is getting when he returns from OS.

And please, for GOD'S SAKE, don't remove the SP badge. No-one knows what they are anyway, so no point removing it.

Boags

[16bit]

having modded a turbo engine my self probably much like the rest of the people on here at some stage i would do the following

1: teins as above
2: upgrade to a properly design CAI
3: upgrade to a more free flow cat back system and maybe a hi flow cat.
4: upgrade your intercooler and piping
5: upgrade to braided lines, slotted disks and better pads/fluid
6: ecu upgrade (basically comes down to money - probably and wolf v500 if they have one for your car)
7: then maybe 25mm adjustable sway bars
8: i thought the sp came with an lsd but if not guru as above too

and after that replace clutch when it brakes and do the fly wheel at the same time.

you will have a pretty good little mini exotic then.

[The Pupat]

Agree with Boags' list.

For ECU this is what I reckon the bang for buck champ at the moment is.

http://www.haltech.com.au/e8.htm
Current ECU of choice on the market with the boost control and wide band lamba optioned in. Closed Loop Idle, Closed Loop Boost, and Closed Loop Mixture Control (autotune).

[Benny]

Your wish list sounds very much like my SP!

1. Bilstein PSS9's as you want to have a decent and very liveable ride
2. Slotted rotors and good pads
3. ECU and tune from Mania. This makes the car a lot more driveable and gives extra power too.
4. Guru diff. Exxy, but supposed to be strong, and works quite well too.
5. Sub and amp so you can hear the music when doing 160k's with the roof down.
6. Polished RB2 style bar. This really ties the rear end together and stops a lot of rattles as well as look good.
7. Learn to drive it to get the maximum enjoyment.

I've had a number of expensive and very fast cars in my time, but the SP is really something special.
Don't go making it a stiffly sprung cart - you won't enjoy it. That's why I went for the Bilsteins. A nice ride and great wheel control.
Don't let anyone tell you that going stiffer means better handling.
That's just pile of bull.
Putting on a big rear bar will just make it very taily, so leave the bars alone. They work very well both on the street and on the track.
You want just a little roll in the body around corners, especially in the wet.
Otherwise, you'll just slide right off backwards!

Oh, and I also have the SE headlights!
Looks great on silver too.

If you're in Sydney Caedrus, send me a PM and we can get together and chat about SP's.
I'll even give you a drive of mine so you can see and feel what the mods do.

[jules]

No1. Suspension
No2. LSD

Then call back for a repeat prescription.


Jules

[Boags]

2: upgrade to a properly design CAI
3: upgrade to a more free flow cat back system and maybe a hi flow cat.
4: upgrade your intercooler and piping

8: i thought the sp came with an lsd but if not guru as above too

This is an SP, not an SE.

[bigdog]

To start -

1. Guru Diff - very necessary
2. $5 hose mod
3. Teins or Bilsteins like Benny's
4. Lockwired Inkonel studs and nuts on turbo and modified oil return to stop leaks. SE top rad hose and replace all old hoses and fittings
5. Slotted rotors and better brake pads
This lot will run to $4-5K... then if you want more grunt -

6. Mania piggyback/MAP and Dyno tune with added boost
7. Good rubber and drive the mammarys off it!!

Oh and the bling stakes demand clear indicators and grille... not sure on the SE lights, and a definite no on the bodykit. Front mudflaps look cool though.

My SP has done 50,000km since September 05 totally trouble free with the exception of a loose exhaust manifold. Couldn't wish for a better daily driver!

[Daz]

I have (in order of value for money) :

$2 hose mod (~20% more power back to back dyno runs)
Guru LSD
Bilstein PSS9 - same as Benny's
DBA sloted rotors and DS2500 pads

This is good for 13.6 1/4 mile and 1:10:50 wakefield times, yet still drives just fine on he road.

A stronger clutch may yield quicker 1/4 mile times but certainly isn't necessary for a road car, this will be my next purchase.

People go on about the \"driveability\" issues of the SP but I dont really think I suffer from these and dont have any desire to do any ECU work on the car. You just learn to work with the car as it is and the track times I am getting don't seem to indicate any mid corner throttle issues, I feel like the car could go even quicker if I drove it properly.

[Casey]

2: upgrade to a properly design CAI
3: upgrade to a more free flow cat back system and maybe a hi flow cat.
4: upgrade your intercooler and piping

8: i thought the sp came with an lsd but if not guru as above too

This is an SP, not an SE.

Beat me to it Boags. These are the things that you would never need to change.

I've got Konis and Eibachs. In reality if the PSS9s were available at the time I would have got them, but the Konis and Eibachs are a great compromise for cost, comfort and control (once you sort out the too low front height).

LSD is a nice mod, but not essential for a car that only sees the road.

Tee piece mod is great.

I had my manifold studs replace with the u-beaut inkonel ones. Also, most oil leaks from the drain pipe seem to be due to the hose clamp on the drain into the sump. Check if its in position correctly.

ECU replacement is on my wishlist. Should be an easy 170kW ATW with better fuel economy too. Maybe after we a/c the house, install the spa, do this years OS holiday, postpone my early retirement plans, etc etc etc....

[MX5-SP]

No1. Suspension
No2. LSD

Then call back for a repeat prescription.


Jules

For once I agree with Jules (...but I'll try not to make it a habit).

I think the LSD is essential and on my wish list (watch this space)

The suspension definitely needs some sort of modification...if just for looks, I'm tired of everyone looking at my underwear...the standard SP is just way too high at the rear.

I think I have substantiated the need for some form of roll-over protection. My preference is for a CAMS approved arrangement e.g DB.

For intercooler protection I've installed a stainless steel grid from Buck-Reddington in the USA...about $150 I think.

...Other than that, I don't see any reason to further modify the car. I'm happy with the performance...and also I want to keep the car as original as possible, but I see the above mods as desirable items if ever AJ makes an offer I can't refuse.

[Sean]

No-one has yet mentionied binning the stock air filter and replacing it (in the stock box still) with a K&N panel...

Power and value all in one.
T piece boost mod.

Then LSD, suspension - depending on budget what you should go for. Koni's and kings are well respected reasonablly priced option.

[MX5-SP]

T piece boost mod.

I think the jury is still out on the T-Piece mod. I know it's cheap...but if it was that simple to apply such a power boost then way didn't Horsley install it?

I took the safer...but much more expensive option...of a chip upgrade. I'm still suspicious of such a simple change...I think the long term consequences will appear at some stage...but then again, I could be wrong. I guess time will tell.

Regards,

[Sean]

T piece boost mod.

I think the jury is still out on the T-Piece mod. I know it's cheap...but if it was that simple to apply such a power boost then way didn't Horsley install it?

I took the safer...but much more expensive option...of a chip upgrade. I'm still suspicious of such a simple change...I think the long term consequences will appear at some stage...but then again, I could be wrong. I guess time will tell.

Regards,

Horsely had to provide warranty, he probably remembers back to the early days of turbo mazda's that nearly sent Mazda broke! I was sceptical at first, but to attend teh NSW dyno day and see a number of cars run on the dyno with VERY safe AFRs, and no pinging and return good power converted me.

I've owned a few turbo cars now, and have used a bleed valve on a few factory turbo's to achieve similar results, my tests werebased only on AFRs, but teh results at the NSW dyno day are hard to argue with.

[Okibi]

Brown Davis Roll Bar
More Free Flowing Exhaust
Cusco LSD
Sticky Tyres
ECU
Goodwin Big Brake Kit
Better turbo and bigger injectors
Tein Flex

[Casey]

T piece boost mod.

I think the jury is still out on the T-Piece mod. I know it's cheap...but if it was that simple to apply such a power boost then way didn't Horsley install it?

I took the safer...but much more expensive option...of a chip upgrade. I'm still suspicious of such a simple change...I think the long term consequences will appear at some stage...but then again, I could be wrong. I guess time will tell.

Regards,

Horsely had to provide warranty, he probably remembers back to the early days of turbo mazda's that nearly sent Mazda broke! I was sceptical at first, but to attend teh NSW dyno day and see a number of cars run on the dyno with VERY safe AFRs, and no pinging and return good power converted me.

I've owned a few turbo cars now, and have used a bleed valve on a few factory turbo's to achieve similar results, my tests werebased only on AFRs, but teh results at the NSW dyno day are hard to argue with.

Well he was also told to keep pegging the power back to make the rest of the drive train unburstable, and to keep insurance at a reasonable level.

Not only that, seeing as it was already a 14 second car (STi WRX quick) in those days, how much faster did it have to be?

More Free Flowing Exhaust
Better turbo and bigger injectors

Seeing 180kWish ATW can be seen with the std gear, why do you suggest these be changed given Caedrus only wants a "slight" power improvement for his daily driver?