Researching has left me with as many questions as answers though, and any tips would be great..Application;
NB8B,
- not street dríven, only trailered to club track days so driveability doesn't matter
- stock engine, T2 4.44 diff.
- longer term plan is some mild mods, about the furthest would be head and cams on a stock bottom end - so mild power and stock rpm's.
One option, and the one I'm leaning towards, is to change to a 1.6 flywheel/clutch combo - which should hold OK, and is just a drop-in replacement as best I can tell. There's some pretty wild units on here running 1.6 clutches...
> I'm thinking a HD organic disc would be OK - are there any actual negatives in going up to a cushioned ceramic or a button at this level (just overkill?)
> suggestions on brand of flywheel and clutch/pp?
(or which ones to avoid!!)Brandwise Exedy, or I've heard Xtreme are OK. I know Direct Clutch do really good kit, but I think that would be an overkill dollar-wise for a basically stock build.
> this 4.5kg flywheel is just over $300AUD landed. Any experience with this brand? At least it's USA manufactured rather than a chinese knockoff...
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLUTCHMAX-10-LBS-PROLITE-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-for-MAZDA-MX-5-MIATA-EUNOS-ROADSTER/133108805819?hash=item1efde730bb:g:MZcAAOSwPW9dJqlz
They also do flywheel/pp/disc combinations for under $400 landed - they're an unknown to me.. but that's a darn sight cheaper than adding a separate pp/disc. Only about $20 extra for a sprung ceramic button plate instead of the organic one.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STAGE-2-PERFORMANCE-CLUTCH-KIT-LIGHT-FLYWHEEL-for-90-93-MAZDA-MX-5-MIATA-NA-B6ZE/132963343353?hash=item1ef53b9bf9:g:g9kAAOSwiJRd88tG
> any hidden issues I've missed with running a 1.6 clutch setup on a mild 1.8? eg 1.8 slave cylinder and lever OK?, any silly ring-gear differences between any years/countries? Unobtanium bolts that don't fit?
Other option is to just drop a 1.8 assembly in.
The 1.8 flywheels often seem to be lighter than a 1.6, but I'm not sure that the rotational mass would actually be less with the wider clutch disc and pressure plate bolted up. I'm assuming that for the same flywheel dead-weight, that a 1.6 will be 'lighter' overall than a 1.8 setup, but haven't been able to determine a cross-over point. Finding spec's on the rotational inertia is 'challenging' - they all just quote dead weight.. and there's not much published on disc/pp weights at all
Sorry for the long post - but any pointers would be gratefully received!
and then you may need a different approach...!
Now to hunt down a flywheel..
