mx5cartalk.com

Hi guys,

I am deciding between Enkei RP-F1 17x8 or 17x9 from good win racing. Which one would be best for road comfort?

17x8
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... 10438.html

17x9
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -1043.html

Would these tyres fit both of the rims (Michelin: Pilot Preceda: 205 / 45/ 17). Are these tyres any good?

Do I need these to go with them? Not sure what they really do, but on the 17x8 and 17x9 link, they recommend them:

Hubcentric Ring set to Fit Mx5 73/67
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -1185.html
McGard Spline Drive Lugs and Tool Set
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... 1058b.html

Thanks!

Unless you're going for looks or super wide rubber, there's no need to go wider. It's just unnecessary weight, not to mention potential clearance issues, so of the two I would go with the 17x8. From what I understand, the McGards are just fancy lug nuts which are designed to not damage your wheels and to make them more difficult to steal.

17X9 is not legal as it's wider that the 25mm/wheel allowed.
205/45/17 on an 8"or 9" wheel would be ridiculously stretched.
You'll need 225-235 on the 8"
Hubcentric rings are just BS, the nuts hold the wheels centred...and..
McGuards are a very thin shanked nut that are perfect for installing of wheels with deep nut recesses where a conventional nut would require a larger diameter socket and risk scratching.
Oh and the RPF1 is a good looking wheel though not to my taste.. I went PF01 with a 235/40/17 which keeps gearing almost stock

Have you seen this thread
http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23
Pics might help you decide on the look you're after

BTW My toes curl looking at the 17x9 fit...but in Oz it would draw too much unwanted attention from plod.

I assume NC... but for the future put your car details in your signature to help everyone out.

The lighter the better for handling and comfort.

Sailor hubcentric rings arent to centre the wheel, they are to put the force on the hub, and take it away from the studs, stopping them from snapping off and you dieing.

Dann

My NC had these in 17x8 et 45 with 225x45 Michelins on when i bought it and they fitted ok ,filled the guards out nicely.

i changed to 215x45 Yoko S drives and they were also a good fit and the new Yoko's had much better grip than the old Michy's, (which is a unfair comparison.) and slightly reduced the gearing which on an Nc is a good thing in my opinion. Would not go to 205's though.

Peter.

NitroDann wrote:I assume NC... but for the future put your car details in your signature to help everyone out.

The lighter the better for handling and comfort.

Sailor hubcentric rings arent to centre the wheel, they are to put the force on the hub, and take it away from the studs, stopping them from snapping off and you dieing.

Dann

Pfffft!
They are there so the monkeys at tyre joints can throw a set of wheels on, tighten the nuts either clockwise or anticlock and you won't come back complaining of a vibration.

Let me know when a set of nuts properly torqued that have not been previously abused break because there was no little plastic ring.

Lol plastic!?

They are supposed to be made of steel.

They are a legal requirement for fitting wheels with a different hub diametre to the hub they are going on. If the hub to wheel contact isnt supposed to be there why have a hub flange and the hole in the wheel?

Dann

Yes Plastic
but are often aluminium...haven't yet seen a steel one.

Could you cite the "legal requirement" I've not seen that.

Sailor wrote:17X9 is not legal as it's wider that the 25mm/wheel allowed.
205/45/17 on an 8"or 9" wheel would be ridiculously stretched.
You'll need 225-235 on the 8"
Hubcentric rings are just BS, the nuts hold the wheels centred...and..
McGuards are a very thin shanked nut that are perfect for installing of wheels with deep nut recesses where a conventional nut would require a larger diameter socket and risk scratching.
Oh and the RPF1 is a good looking wheel though not to my taste.. I went PF01 with a 235/40/17 which keeps gearing almost stock

Have you seen this thread
http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23
Pics might help you decide on the look you're after

BTW My toes curl looking at the 17x9 fit...but in Oz it would draw too much unwanted attention from plod.

Noob question.

What is the difference between 205 and 225-235?

20 and 30mm increase in tyre width with a corresponding increase in sidewall height.
235/40 will have a width of 235mm and a sidewall height that is 40% of that.

Look here
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalcul ... ion=submit

The plastic hub rings melt hahah but I've got them. Very cheap!
On going debate.. Do the rings do anything or not ):??

I've never had hub rings in any car I've ever owned.

Experience: Wheels have never fallen off.

jerrah wrote:I've never had hub rings in any car I've ever owned.

Experience: Wheels have never fallen off.

You could also potentially drive around with just two wheel nuts holding your rim on without any issue. Doesn't make it right...

The wheels are designed to be supported by the hub, so that all the forces are borne by the hub not the wheel studs.
The wheel nuts are just to keep the rim against the hub.

Yes you can run rims without hub centric rings so that the wheel studs take all the forces, and in probably 99.99% of cases will be fine. Its just not how its supposed to be used.

That really is complete rubbish.
The wheels are supported by the wheel nuts.
The rings are used ONLY to locate the wheel on the hub till the nuts are tightened....It allows for morons to tighten wheel nuts either clockwise or anticlockwise yet still have the wheel centred.
The RX7 wheels I use on the track are a tight fit on the rear hubs of my NC, they are a loose fit on the front....they are not branded F/R to suit the different hub diameters nor are the std wheels which are a loose fit.

What if you run a 5mm floating spacer?