Mentalpopcorn's MX5 SE

[mentalpopcorn]

Well it has been quite a while since I have posted. I haven't stopped working on the car or reading posts, just been a bit slack.

Since my last post I've made a couple of changes and am in the process of a couple more. In summary:

Installed test Motec M84 ECU, new Manifold Pressure Sensor, Water Temp Sensor and 2nd hand Lambda sensor
Removed Turbosmart Manual Boost Controller (as ECU now controls the OEM Boost Solenoid)
Installed Walbro 190 Fuel Pump
Installed new Lambda sensor
Installed Denso 440cc injectors
Installed new Motec M84 ECU

Over the next couple of weeks I will be installing:

M-Tuned Dual Feed Fuel Rail
Hondata Heatshield manifold gasket

After that I will do another Dyno tune and give things a rest for a while. I'll be getting married at the end of the year and not sure I'll be allowed to squeeze in any more work.

Here are some photo's and info. If any has any questions feel free to drop me a line.

M84 Bits and Pieces[/b

Wiring Loom
We completed a test fitting first but have since made some changes. We wired in the Lambda after this shot was taken and we also run a line to a separate water temp sensor. We had trouble getting the Motec to read the factory temp sensor properly, so put one in the radiator hose.


Manifold Pressure Sensor and how we mounted it.



M84
Actually installed a demo one first, just to get everything sorted out and later installed my new one. It was mainly a convenience thing and not a necessity.




[b]Walbro Fuel Pump Install
I largely followed the instructions found below. It is a lot louder than stock. Like an electric aerial always going down.
http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/fuel-pump-install
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=38087


Denso 440cc Injectors Install
Here's the OEM and Denso's together. There's plenty of instructions around to get this done. It was pretty straight forward.


Dyno Run - Pre injectors and Pump
134kw. It isn't a great deal different pre and post ECU except to say that pre ECU the power is more wild and less usable (hitting boost cut etc). Post ECU power delivery is a lot more controlled, smooth. At this point we are only running around 9 psi boost.


Once the injectors, pump and the final ECU was installed, we had some trouble with the Lambda sensor. Problem ended up being a wiring issue and easily fixed but I installed a new one anyway. Trick for new players...each Lambda sensor has a calibration number and there are two ways to get this. Do a fresh air calibration test (which I didn't know so just installed it) or test the resistance against some of the wires (which I also didn't know). I can't recall how many times I've been under the car...but its a lot. I managed to get to the plug and use a Multi Meter to measure the resistance against the wiring.

Once this was in, I could do some tuning myself to smooth out idle and cruising speeds. We also got the boost up (around 12psi) but having some trouble controlling it successfully. It is creeping down at full throttle between 4k and 6.5k. Will be playing with the size of the restrictor coming off the manifold hose and if necessary putting some extra tension on the waste gate actuator (or replace it).

I haven't done a proper dyno run since the injectors and pump where installed (due to Lambda issues), so once the new gasket and rail are in, we'll tweak the boost set up and do a final dyno run.

[timk]

Cool, that's the same T-MAP sensor I'm using. Makes a whole lot of sense having the two in one.

Are you trying to control the factory boost solenoid? I've heard it's pretty weaksauce.

[mentalpopcorn]

It's been a while since my last update...2011 was a big year. Since my last post I got married, been on long honeymoon and have done very little other than that.

I'm still due to do a final Dyno Tune...when the injectors were fitted my Lambda acted up (which ended up being a wiring issue), so we never did a complete tune. As such, the car's running OK, but not great. My Motec expert and good friend had a baby recently so his time is limited. I guess his baby should come before mine.

In response to Saboteur, I am trying to control the factory solenoid. I'm still trying to strike the right balance between; the restrictor pill size, solenoid control and waste gate actuator. All of which I will try to solve on the next dyno run. The main problem I have is the boost slightly dropping off once it hits peak rather than holding. You can see the actuator move, so there is a problem there to be solved. Possibly the flapper is being forced open by the exhaust back pressure (we can fix that by increasing the spring pressure on the wastegate can by spacing it back with washers) or some other issue with one of these touch points. I guess this is the fun of modifiying things!

An unexpected dilemma has also occured recently. My car was on the street during the recent storms and I was in one of the worst affected areas...very big hail. So my car now looks like a golf ball. Full of dints. The bonnet and boot obviously the most affected areas, but there are some stray dints in both quarters, guards and doors. Plus a small chip in the windscreen (which is better than my neighbours who's windscreens shattered).

So I'm waiting (like many people) for the insurance company to call me back to get the claim moving. Given the size of the event plus every panel beater on holidays, I'm not expecting a quick resolution. I'm very concerned they might write the car off given it's age, market value and it will require multiple panels replaced and full respray. On the plus side, I might end up with a fully resprayed car..which will be great if done properly. Time will tell.

I'll post some pictures soon so you can share my heartbreak.

Also picked up some new bits and pieces for Xmas. Clear side reflectors (with bulbs that can be wired into indicators), clear indicators (smoked to match the headlights), chrome fuel lid and a push button start kit. None of which I will be fitting until I know the status of my insurance claim.

Hope everyone had a great Xmas, and I will update again sooner rather than later.

[timk]

Bummer to hear about the hail.

If you find yourself sinking too much time into the factory solenoid, the MAC valves seem to work quite well and aren't too expensive.

Cheers

[mentalpopcorn]

Well it looks like my car will be repaired at a repairer of my choice. Nice.

Going to start hunting for a hard top. Been thinking about one for a while so might as well get it now (if I can find one) and get it resprayed at the same time.

Xmas delivered some other goodies which I'll now just pass on to the panel beater to install. Clear reflectors and side indicators and a chrome fuel lid.

I may also bring forward my suspension plans as I'd prefer to get that heavy work done before a nice shiny new paint job.

Photo's of the car and new bits and pieces will be posted soon.

[mentalpopcorn]

It's been quite a while since my last post, so lots to share.

My car was repaired after the hail, so it's nice and new and shiny. Got it back just a couple of weeks ago after around 7 to 8 weeks. Took the opportunity to make some changes:

Car has been debadged
Added clear reflectors and gave them a tint
Added clear (pre tinted) indicators
Added a Beatrush Radiator Cowl and got it sprayed Velocity Red
Added a Track Dog Air Splitter
Added a chrome fuel lid
Added NoPro Washer Bottle

Here are some photos.








The NoPro was an easy install for anyone attempting it. Basically bolts straight in and you just need to reverse the piping from right to left, to left to right. Only troublesome part of getting the one way clips out, but some patiences and a small screwdriver does the trick.

Instructions for the Track Dog air splitter are comprehensive and easy to follow. Get the car off the ground and having a few bulldog clips is very handy. After that some alignment and drilling does the trick. Here's a shot from underneath the car



So what's next...

Want to get the Motec back in. On the last tune we noticed it was using the 440cc injectors to capacity so sold them and purchased some 550cc injectors from FiveOMotorsport. Will be fitting those in the next few months and doing a comprehensive tune.



Purchased a hardtop. It's currently getting some minor repair and respray to Velocity Red. Came of an import and has a demister. Second hand hard top fitting kit is on its way from MX5 Mania.

Also have a Track Dog Oil Catch Can and Carbing Front Strut Bar to install. Probably get onto that this week.

That's about it for now. Car looks fantastic...like new...so I've been reinspired to get working on it again.

[Lokiel]

Beatrush Radiator Cowl sprayed Velocity Red looks OEM, if you didn't tell anyone, they wouldn't know any better.

It definitely looks better than the aluminium finish it came in.

[Okibi]

Such an awesome SE, love seeing your updates and i'm so glad they didn't write it off (although i'd be the first vulture circling the motec).

[mentalpopcorn]

Took a trip to Sandown on Saturday for a track day. Mate of mine was racing a Daytona. Great day and lots of fun. Also got up close and personal with some other nice cars.

Finally got the Carbing Strut Brace installed. Had some trouble with it. The bolts securing it to the firewall go into some threaded rivets in the brace itself. They are suppose to collapse as it tightens and bed in the brace, but they didn't. So they just spun as they tightening. Fixed by taking it out and doing the bolt up with a nut behind the rivet...that bedding it in and corrected the problem. A little fiddly but successful.

Installed the oil catch can but have been told they way I've done it may cause problems. Basically I blocked the oil return, opted to manually drain it as necessary. I've since been told the return line to the sump serves two purposes, returning oil and allowing any excess pressure to escape. Without the path of exit, excess pressure will either find its was out of the hose from the top of the engine, or worse case push out seals etc. be interested in other peoples thoughts on this, as I have seen many posts where the return is blocked. I may play it safe and move the can to the drivers side of the engine bay, run the return and run longer hoses from the head and air intake.

I have posted this via Tapatalk with photos for the first time....hoping it all works ok.

Mentalpopcorn
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[Lokiel]

:
Installed the oil catch can but have been told they way I've done it may cause problems. Basically I blocked the oil return, opted to manually drain it as necessary. I've since been told the return line to the sump serves two purposes, returning oil and allowing any excess pressure to escape. Without the path of exit, excess pressure will either find its was out of the hose from the top of the engine, or worse case push out seals etc. be interested in other peoples thoughts on this, as I have seen many posts where the return is blocked. I may play it safe and move the can to the drivers side of the engine bay, run the return and run longer hoses from the head and air intake.
:

Do non-turbo MX5s even have this oil-return hose on the driver's side of the oil pan?
I doubt that blocking it will have much impact with regard to providing a pressure release from the oil pan since there are other venting avenues.

I got rid of mine completely via a DIY blanking plate.

From this:


To This:

[mentalpopcorn]

Lokiel, that's a good question, I'm not sure.

I did come across the work you did and planned on doing the same. I'll be doing some more investigation before diving in, interested to know the mechanics behind it. For now though it's fine, a week of driving and not a drop in the can so far.


Mentalpopcorn
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[mentalpopcorn]

Found this via Miata Turbo.net

http://www.106rallye.co.uk/members/dynofiend/breathersystems.pdf

Excellent article on blow by and breather systems.

Mentalpopcorn
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

- Edit Okibi 17/6/2012 9:29 WST - URL fixed.

[Apu]

Thanks for posting the link. Very useful as it also distinguishes oil separators from oil catch cans.

[mentalpopcorn]

Small upgrade to report. After selling my other shift knobs I've now received and installed a TWM Performance shift knob.

I'm not sure whether I should say well packaged or over packaged but it certainly arrived safely. See photo.

Looks really well made, heavy and allows for adjustable height. At the moment I'm running it low but will try various heights to see what's comfortable.

No more experimenting with shift knobs..this one will do....I'm done.


Weekend I'm planning on building a bracket for the Motec ECU and secure the cover plate...it's rattling around and annoying the hell out of me. Or, something else is rattling and I'll spend all weekend trying to find it. Then I'll be making plans to install my new 550 injectors and re-tune.

Not sure I've mentioned by hardtop purchase, but I have and it's currently getting some minor repair and respray in Velocity Red. Need to set some time aside to install the striker plate.

Mentalpopcorn
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[mentalpopcorn]

Had a rush of blood when I got home from work and started pulling the car apart to install my hardtop side latches.

It was easier than I expected. The trim came off relatively easily, after removing the a clip or two and removing the windbreaker, it was just a matter of maneuvering the seat belt out of the way.

As I've read, there is a tool mark behind the trim which needs to be cut away to reveal the factory mounting point. Out came the Dremel. I cut out a square first and then used a half round file to shape it up. It was quite a quick and easy job.

Once both sides where done, everything went back in and the striker plates screwed up no problem. The bolts required a T40 Torx Bit, so that was an excuse to add to the tool kit.

After that, I decided to mount the Motec ECU in preparation for the new injectors and tune. Prior to this, it was just sitting next to the factory ECU which isn't ideal for the long term. Got some flat plate and cut an appropriately sized piece, then folded a couple of sides to provide a snug fit. Used some material tape for support and some Velcro. Really happy with the result, there is no movement and the Motec is well protected. Fits under the cover plate well.




Mentalpopcorn
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