apsilon's MX5

[apsilon]

Thanks for that. Amayama have that one listed at $62 so I might give it a go. How many different NA MX5 defroster switches can there be? I'm surprised there's more than one, surely there can't be three. Right?

[93_Clubman]

This is what the Aust Mazda dealer initially supplied me with:
https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/light-switch-mk1-p-129.html
And this is what they subsequently supplied me with:
https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/heated-rear- ... p-173.html
There's also the following for 1993-1994 auto trans models:
https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/heated-rear- ... -1878.html

[apsilon]

The one I have and the one listed in the miata.net FAQ looks like the one shown for auto trans which is interesting. You can also get it as a combo defrost/fog light switch. Maybe all the US cars have an auto loom or something?

I've ordered the other one from Amayama so we'll see how that goes. Wanted to order a few other bits from them anyway.

Thanks again for the help.

[apsilon]

Back to work this week after the previous weeks break and a lot on this weekend so not much progress. All the old bushings are out though now. None of them were in terrible condition and several have definitely been replaced previously. Still the IL Motorsport set replacing them should provide a nice little upgrade.

[apsilon]

I just can't help myself, when I'm 80% of the way to something near what I'm doing I need to do that as well. This has been playing on my mind the past couple of weeks. I found when I removed the wheels the studs were all pretty cruddy. No damaged threads etc but they're certainly showing their age not to mention who knows how many times they've been over torqued with a rattle guns over the past 21 years so I've decided to replace them while I have everything apart. Of course that means pulling them so they can be properly pressed out and new ones pressed in (I'm not keen on the hammer out pull in method many use) and if I'm doing that I may as well replace the bearings because with my luck one of them will fail on the next drive if I don't so yeah. Rear bearings are going to be fun I think.

One question I meant to ask earlier but forgot about, when I pulled all the arms, several of the bolts had a white residue on them. I'm assuming this is dried white lithium grease. is this or something else recommended when reinstalling? Workshop manual makes no mention of it.

Finally, when pressing the new bushes into the arms, I've seen suggestions of using dish or car soap as a lube while others say dry only. Can't see any mention of it in the manual. To me it makes sense to use something to cut back on friction and provide some protection to the rubber during install.

[hks_kansei]

From what i've seen, the white flakey stuff on bolts etc is often just a bit of corrosion or zinc from the galvanising done to prevent rust. It's nothing to be concerned about.

Just use a drop of blue loctite on the threads if you're concerned about them loosening.


With regard to the bushes, I've always just used bearing grease (or whatever grease i'm also using for the bush itself)

Going in totally dry is a good way to have the rubber/polyurethane catch on an edge and tear.

[manga_blue]

The best grease to use is rubber grease which you can buy at Repco or at brake shops. That way you know the grease won't attack the rubber over time.

[apsilon]

Thanks guys, the white stuff (I should take a photo) wasn't a bit, the entire thread of the bolt was coated in it thickly. Could be corrosion but seems excessive. Not worried about them loosening off, was just wondering if it was normal or suggested to lube them where they're within the bushing sleeve.

Grease is the one thing I saw multiple recommendations not to use to ensure the rubber then doesn't move within the arm. Where abouts and how much grease are you guys applying?

[apsilon]

Finished preping the arms today so I'll drop them off for powder coat this week.

Also got new front bearings along with extended ARP studs so pressed the new old studs out and the ARP studs in. Haven't removed the rears from the car yet but they'll be getting new bearings and ARP studs as well.

[apsilon]

I said a few posts back that i couldn't work out how to tell the two FUCA apart but that there must be a difference as there's two parts listings, well I didn't look closely enough at the parts listing. Referring to http://mazdaepc.com/parts/MX-5/AENA04/W1/3400

34-211 and 34-211Z on the diagram refer to ARM(R),UPPER and ARM(L),UPPER. Expanding those you get the same part number under each for the FUCA without ABS. I didn't initially notice the part number shown is the same NA0134200A for both sides, I just assumed as there were two listings that they were different. I'm not familiar with the abbreviation W/A but I'm assuming that means "with" ABS then the part numbers differ between left and right. So for our cars without ABS the arms are the same on both sides. No wonder i couldn't spot the difference.

[slug_dub]

Can you tell me the brand of the bearings you bought? Have they been machined flat on the backside around the stud holes?

[apsilon]

I didn't notice any branding on them, but I also wasn't looking, and they were in a plain white box. It's the same one sold by MX5parts.co.uk and MX5 Mania (who claim it's the same one Mazda supplies as genuine but without the branded box). There is a flat machined into the casting where the stud seats. Why do you ask?

[apsilon]

So with the suspension soon to be complete and a weekend freed up due to some work being postponed I'm starting to turn my attention to one of the many other tasks i want to do.

One of the calipers has a small leak so I'll be attempting my first ever caliper rebuild. However I'm also changing all the lines to braided (plus new rotors and pads) and thinking while I have the calipers off I may have them powdercoated, probably just black for a clean understated look but the +25kw you get for going red is tempting. I'm also wondering how they'd look colour matched to the car.

Anyway, is there any issue with completely draining the brake and clutch masters and all the lines? I want to do a full fluid replacement anyway so with everything disconnected it's going to be easier to just let everything drain rather than retain fluid in the systems. I know it'll likely be a bigger bleed job at the end but that's OK. I believe some more modern vehicles this would be an issue but I don't imagine it is on an NA but thought it worth checking before I do something stupid.

[ManiacLachy]

That makes sense about the control arms matching. They looked damn near identical to me too, except for the ABS mount on mine.

You must have a good relationship with your local powder coater ;) I've never been a fan of stock calipers like ours being painted. Ones like Brembos or Wilwoods look OK painted but our cast two piece ones always look "ricer" to me. I'd opt for black or something subtle personally, rather than red or colour matched.

Can't really advise on draining the brake fluid. I suspect it would be fine, but you might use more fluid when you come to the flush to get all the air out.

[apsilon]

I'm leaning towards black, mostly as a way to just tidy them up. Colour match might work though as the car is neo green so from a distance behind the wheel they're going to look black and not standout. Was only joking about red, I definitely won't be doing a bright colour on stock calipers (though I have in my younger days). Yellow would be good against the green if I wanted something that would stand out. I could paint them but powder coating won't cost much more without all the hassle/time of me cleaning them and should get a better finish.