apsilon's MX5

shirtz · Postby **shirtz** » Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:06 am

photos with wheels on not loading

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:47 am

It's coming. Actually, that reminds me. i better go and get tyres put on the wheels.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:32 pm

So I decided I'd pull the exhaust off this weekend as I have new engine mounts to go in and I want to do those before the suspension goes back on as I think it'll be easier without the suspension and exhaust in the way.

Took a fair bit longer than I'd hoped, old rusted bolts and a cross threaded nut on the cat but I got it all off. Haven't put the new one on (Fujitsubo Super Ex header and RM-01A catback) but couldn't resist a quick side by side. Hopefully the new one all fits nicely as it seems to have more hangers, it certainly looks better and is a lot lighter. Need to sort out a cat once fitted.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Mon Sep 24, 2018 12:32 pm

Long weekend coming this weekend so if the last of my parts arrive, and they should, I'll hopefully have the car back on it's wheels.

That leaves some questions on alignment. I believe all the control arm and sway bar bolts should be tightened with the cars weight on it's wheels. How have others achieve this? There's certainly no room to work under the car when it's on the ground. I'm thinking of buying a timber sleeper or two and cutting some blocks to lower it on to so it's still raised but the suspension is loaded normally. It'll still be very tight as I'm not the smallest bloke around.

Anyone used a mobile aligner that comes to you? There's a few in Sydney but no idea if they'e any good and they're not particularly cheap. If I need to, someone who can do a basic alignment that's good enough to get me to someone who really knows what they're doing.

Speaking of which, who are the recommended wheels alignment places in Sydney these days? Someone who knows what they're doing and will take the time to set things up properly. I've spent a bit doing the bushes, new coilover and rubber so I may as well make sure I'm getting the benefit of it all.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Mon Sep 24, 2018 1:48 pm

To tighten the bolts, put a trolley jack under the lower control arm and jack it until the car just lifts from the jack stand. Torque all the bolts down then move to the next corner. If you have adjustable endlinks you'll want two jacks to get both sides supported while you make adjustments.

Some blocks to rest the tyres on would be best, but you'd need a lot of wood. I don't think a couple of sleepers is going to give you enough height to wrench on things.

I wouldn't use a mobile alignment personally. I don't think they can be as accurate, especially not on my uneven garage floor. You'll probably have to eye ball excessive toe and camber so it's not extreme, then take it nice and easy to the alignment shop, even if it's just to the local tyre place for the initial setup.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Sep 24, 2018 2:55 pm

ManiacLachy wrote:To tighten the bolts, put a trolley jack under the lower control arm and jack it until the car just lifts from the jack stand.

This is the easiest!

You can put some paint on the alignment bolts and get them 'close' to what they were prior to 'playing' with them, you will it close.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Mon Sep 24, 2018 3:00 pm

If he's doing ELBJs that won't work, you need to dial out some of that instant camber gains. I can't remember if is or isn't doing the ELBJs though. And I think he pulled all the arms off ages ago, so there's nothing to mark.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:26 pm

Not doing ELBJ at this stage, may later depending on what alignment settings I can get after all this. Arms came off and went to the powder coaters a while back but I'm also putting in updated camber bolts when it all goes back together. Also lowering the car slightly with new coilovers not to mention the alignment before wasn't great anyway.

Now if these parts would just arrive. Fastway (oh the irony) picked them up last Thurs and still haven't delivered them. How long does it take to drive across Sydney? The traffic is rubbish but it's not that bad.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Thu Sep 27, 2018 1:46 pm

Finally have a working hardtop demister, just in time for summer :lol:

Probably never use it but it was one of those things that would bug me knowing it didn't work.

Received the final piece of the puzzle, the switch 93_Clubman provided the part number of, plugged it into the blue plug I showed earlier and it worked (once I remembered to plug the pigtail in). Even the dash light works which is nice.

I've also received most of the other parts I was waiting on and I'll pick up the powder coated control arms this afternoon so should be able to show some good progress over the weekend. Still need to sort tyres, was supposed to do that today but turned up there this morning to find they'd only ordered 1 tyre rather than 4.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Thu Sep 27, 2018 5:08 pm

Picked up the powder coated arms. Very happy with them, they look great. The satin looks very OEM. All the mild surface rust (one of the FLCAs had a patch that would've become a problem in the not too distant future) taken care of before coating. Ready to get stuck into it over the weekend.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 6:56 am

How to make a car new again.

Is powdercoating an expensive exersise?

What about bushes...aftermarket or OEM.

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apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:51 am

Not really expensive though I'm sure it varies between places. It cost $300 to have all the control arms done along with a few other pieces not pictured. That was to sandblast to remove the existing crud, paint and rust, clean and then coat and bake which I think is fairly reasonable. Long term I intend to have the subframes and dash frame done as well.

Bushes will be IL Motorsport ones. Reportedly about 30% stiffer than OEM but still rubber. I didn't want to go to poly so i think this will be a nice upgrade while not effecting NVH too much.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 8:01 am

StanTheMan wrote:Is powdercoating an expensive exercise?

Curious on a rough price as well!

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 8:15 am

Very nice. I went with a dark grey on mine. I didn't want it to look like nothing was done, but I also didn't want it to be attention grabbing and obvious. In the end, it's tucked up in the car and nobody sees it anyway :mrgreen:

A mate of mine gets a lot of powder coating done as business, I asked him to get mine done with his guy and I would pay him back, he did it for a 6-pack of VB! (He got a carton)

I went poly on mine, with bronze bearings. The result is much firmer, with some increased NVH, but feels solid and very communicative. And thanks to the bearings as opposed to only the sleeves there's no binding or squeaking as many complain about with poly.

That said, I think the I.L. Motorsports are probably the better option for my uses. I'm certainly not unhappy with what I've got now, but the I.L.'s would have been simpler and just as good for me.

Can't wait to see your final setup and get your opinion.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 28, 2018 9:31 am

apsilon wrote:Not really expensive though I'm sure it varies between places. It cost $300 to have all the control arms done along with a few other pieces not pictured. That was to sandblast to remove the existing crud, paint and rust, clean and then coat and bake which I think is fairly reasonable. Long term I intend to have the subframes and dash frame done as well.

Bushes will be IL Motorsport ones. Reportedly about 30% stiffer than OEM but still rubber. I didn't want to go to poly so i think this will be a nice upgrade while not effecting NVH too much.

great move.

I did the Polyurathane thing & was shocked at the stiffness. Regretted it at the time. Now I'm juts used to it.