mrpham's summer build

[mrpham]

Manifold Vacuum Rail - http://omgpham.com/manifold-vacuum-rail

OK! So last post was positive, engine started up, ran well and idled nicely. But that didn't last long...

While getting the tune sorted, I noticed that the vacuum readings were a little off and it turned out to be a vacuum leak due to a hose not being connected properly. Fixed the vacuum leak and then the engine didn't want to idle anymore... So I fixed the idling issue but that resulted in my brake booster not getting enough vacuum to assist the brakes

So the real problem was the vacuum set up, I think. So I've come up with a set up that mimics a few other off-the-shelf ITB kits. Haven't had time to finish everything yet, but will post update when I get it running again and report back on the vacuum set up.



These are the push-to-connect fittings I'm using, swivel tee fittings.




Marked out the holes and drilled 11.1mm holes so that I could tap a 1/4" NPT thread.





The fittings tested fitted and measured so I could cut the hoses. The hoses need be installed in the fittings while they're out.





Vacuum rail installed and the old holes plugged up.



Also test fitted the filter backing plate, some clearance issues here...



Installed a Garage Star Wiper Cowl panel, and need to make a new fuel hose because I had to go from dual to single feed fuel setup.



And finally installed and gapped the headlight covers, hate doing them so much.

[speed]

So much neatness!

Not doing a coolant reroute?

[mrpham]

omgpham.com - http://omgpham.com/thats-not-a-mod

New update time.

First off, I won the People's Choice Award at the 2016 All Japanese Day. So happy!



A few small updates to the interior.



Push button start installed in the factory cigarette port, Jass Performance shifter boot, and my new Hazard Switch Kit.




This was a custom turned part my friend made for me. It's pretty much a quick connect fitting into a barb adapter. And it's used for my temporary idling setup.



Had this piece laser cut out of aluminium to mount the modification and build plates.



I also managed to install the Pipercross C604D air filter. The adapter plate was a custom one and the filter is offset towards the front of the car by 10mm, this was done to clear the clutch master cylinder and reservoir.





And there's very little clearance, so I need to find a more compact clutch master and reservoir solution soon.




I've had side skirts on my car in the past, but I removed them because they always seems to go wavey after awhile. This was using the skirts made from ABS plastic, but I'm pretty sure the polyurethane ones will do the same. Fibreglass ones should never go wavey, but the fibreglass ones I bought ages ago were wavey out of the box. It seemed like they were moulded off a set of wavey ABS ones.

So these are some new ABS plastic ones, but modified. I had some aluminium sheet (1.5mm thick) laser cut, and folded one side to give it some rigidity. I then wire brushed both surfaces to roughen it up, and a polyurethane based adhesive was used to hold them together. Lots of clamping...

Hopefully they'll hold up, will update how it goes after summer!




Side skirts installed!

[bruce]

Nice update.

[Alex 2550]

Congratulations on the award mate!! well deserved.
awesome job with the brace and easy for people to do, i like those skirts as it evens up the lines when a gv lip is fitted but every time i saw them fitted they were wavey. Because of your efforts in working out a solution when the time comes ill get in touch and buy a set of skirts from you mate.
any chance you could get a picture completely side on to see how the GV lip, skirts and rear lip look as i couldn't find one when i looked a while ago. (plenty with the R type lip)
again well done.

[mrpham]

Thanks Alex!

This is the only photo I have side on, hope it helps!

[speed]

That looks amazing!

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

yer im with you stevo looks great!!!
thats a perfect pic, thanks heaps i just wanted to see the lines side on of gv lip to side skirts to rear lip.
the car is looking awesome!!

[smy0003]

That wheel fitment is extremely satisfying to look at.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

[KevGoat]

The whole car is extremely satisfying to look at

[mrpham]

Toda High Compression Pistons! - http://omgpham.com/toda-high-compression-pistons

Welllll than...... A couple new things in this update, and possibly a second post regarding some stuff I've been 3D modelling for the build.

First up, managed to install this 5V oil pressure sender and input it into the Megasquirt for full datalogging and dash display through Shadow Dash. The tablet mounted using two magnetic mounts clipped to the eye-ball vents. Works very well and has a very strong hold.

It was surprisingly easy to get working, the sender needs +5v, ground and signal return to the ECU. I happened to use the AD6 input on my Megasquirt, and TunerStudio has a built in wizard to configure your sender.





Developed a slight oil leak into cylinder no. 4 so took valve cover off to replace the gasket. Remember to go genuine valve cover gasket! I've had nothing but trouble with non-genuine valve cover gaskets.




Finally bought some new tyres and fresh alignment done! Hankook RS3 225/45 R15.



Received and installed my IL Motorsport bonnet lifts, not sure if I like them yet.



Next up, I had some spare parts accumulating and was able to put together this LED bar kit. It's operated via RF remote control that looks like a bomb detonator, the LED light bar and associated electronics (now enclosed in water-proof case) are mounted just behind the front bar.






Garage Star Coil-on-Plug adapter acquired!



Toda forged pistons!!! They are 11.0:1 compression ratio and +3mm overbore, made from a special alloy with very littler thermal expansion which allows it to run factory Mazda piston-to-bore clearances. Toda also designed the skirt to allow usage of factory oil squirters. I also ordered the matching overbore head gasket from Toda.




Some close ups of the pistons.

[smy0003]

Nice work on the light bar, very stealth.

Sent from my LG-H815

[Lokiel]

Your engine bay is truly awesome, it's so spartan and clean.

You'll grow to love the bonnet lifts, like many features, once you get them you don't want to live without them even though it seems like such a small thing.

Also, don't take that RF remote control with you if you go to the airport or park near a big event, it really does look like a dodgy bomb detonator from an old movie.

[mrpham]

3D Modelling & Printing - http://omgpham.com/3d-modelling-printing

Ahoy!

Lately I've been spending more time learning how to model parts in 3D, still new so bare with me. It's not a new concept to me, but I am using Fusion 360 mainly now and sometimes a bit of SolidWorks.

I've done some prints in the past, a good example would be the bulk head connector plate I drew up and printed. Had it installed in the car while I waited for the final piece to be laser cut from steel.




And now I'm starting to move onto slightly more detailed designs. Starting of with "remixing" a design from Thingiverse.

4AGE Black Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25207

And my "remixed" version, which is basically modified for Silver Top engines instead of Black Top and increasing overall length to 115mm.

4AGE Silver Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016083



I than scrapped that design altogether and did one from scratch, increased the radius lip profile and removed the side bracing. The print below was done in ABS and I'll be testing it for clearance and heat resistance. If all goes well, I'll most likely print my final design in ABS. If not, other materials like Nylon and Poly-carbonate are alternative options for heat resistance.





And this is another*design I quickly modelled. Main differences being the bottom flange, length adjusted to 105mm and the dimpled internal surface. NO idea how that'll work for airflow, good or bad, but it's fun drawing these and 3D printing them! The idea is from dimpled surfaces on golf balls, and I've seen shops machine dimples onto the back of inlet valves and cylinder head ports.




And this is how the print came out.... About halfway up the velocity stack, the wall was a tiny bit too thin and the dimples were too deep! Not something I was expecting, but I'll learn from this one and make revisions. This print was also done at 300 micron layer height, I think it needs to be 100-200 micro next time.




And finally, this is an airbox/plenum that will mount to my current Pipercross filter plate. Still needs some work here and there, but I'm pretty set on the general shape of it and the inlet is 4.5" diameter. The final product could be moulded from the 3D print and made with carbon fibre, or possible printed entirely out of fibre infused nylon for strength and heat resistance.



More to come!

[Magpie]

As per the rest of your build, the attention to detail is fantastic!