mx5cartalk.com

G'Day All,
I'm wanting to do some basic DIY maintenance on my NC, but the owners' manual is worth less than toilet paper (meaning toilet paper actually has a use) and I have a few questions that the NC owners here would probably have a straight forward answer to.
I don't want to seem lazy in not doing my own research, but I beleive those who own NCs and do their own maintenance would be best placed to give direct advice rather than making up my own mind from what I read at random sites on the internets.

Oil
For me, money is no object when it comes to engine protection, and even the dearest oil on the market is affordable, so why not spend the cash on the most suitable oil? Not being a very high performance vehicle, I assume that I don't need fully synthetic oil, but would happily pay for it if I was advised to do so.
What oil would be the best possible lube to put in my beloved MX5?

Oil Filter
Is it worth getting a high flow filter of some description? Just stay with stock part(s)? What is the very best thing one could do for a stock NC engine in this regard?
If there is no obvious best choice, I'd be going with the K&N HP-1002


Air filter.
Stock? or after market (K&N etc)? I am interested in the K&N Typhoon Kit (pic below)

but I reckon they'd be pretty expensive... 3.5 HP at 6500RPM is a nice boost though... but I'd be worried for someone of my [lack of] ability installing this on my own... but I'd try anything once :-)
I'm not even sure they're available for NCs as yet.

Or the "57i Performance Kit"

which looks like a cheaper option... I'm "guessing" the extra breathing ability would provide a noticable improvement across the rev range though.

Fuel Filter
Don't even know where this monkey is, and haven't changed one since my old RX3 many, many moons ago... again, any recommendations/advice would be appreciated.

Other
Any other fluids need replacing? Brake/Clutch fluid, power steering? Anything at all?

I have a couple of reasons for wanting to do all of this.
1) It is a second hand car, and even though there is a log book, I would be more comfortable knowing that I have done everything I can to ensure that only the very best, and most suitable products have been used, especially engine oil.
2) I like mucking around under the bonnet... which I'm sure plenty of people here can understand :-)

Again, I really appreciate any and all advice from those who know more than I do (I know bugger all, so ALL advice would be good - and appreciated!).

Cheers.


PS: ANy NC owners able to advise where to put car/axil stands when raising the vehicle? The owners' manual doesn't even show jack points!

My opinions:
Use Castrol Edge synthetic - that's close to Mazda synthetic oil recommended for the NC. At least every 6 months/10,000km
Mazda oil filter at least every 6 months/10,000km
Mazda air filter every 60,000km at least (or after a dust storm )

From the owner's Manual:
Change hydraulic fluids every 2 years - every 12 moths if used for track days etc.
Power steering is an inspection item only. No change required or recommended
Fuel filter - no idea where it is - every 150,000km.
Coolant - FL22 at 10 years or 200,000km and then every 5 years or 100,000km
Plugs - every 100,000km
Valve clearances - adjust every 120,000km (if noisy)

Jack points are shown on page 7-13 of the Owner's Manual

Thanks JBT, I am a Castrol fan from way back (even used to use TTS in my 2 stroke lawn mower ) - that's what I'll use. I was hoping I could use synthetic, but I'v been told some engines don't like it, and prefer mineral oil only.
Just opened my "manual" and you're right, 7-14 and 7-15... I lost patience with that book pretty quickly

Would you recommend getting an after market air filter? I've had cars before that benefitted from the increased air flow from 3rd party filters.

After market filters are a personal choice. I just stick with what Mazda figured was good. I also don't believe the power claims.

Fuel filter is in the tank, Big job that why its 150,000k's

I used a Ryco oil filter the other day.

Oil Nulon 100% Synthetic 10W-40 Hi-Tech Fast Flowing Engine Oil (the ducks guts)



I just brought the K&N 57i Performance Kit and haven't fitted it yet, That is the only one they make by "Rocket" the importers.
Love the NC Only had it for a month so far. Pauly

Pauly, when you fit it, any chance of taking some snaps and making a kind of tutorial, or least some kind of walk through putting it on. I'd be very interested to read it. It looks like it would be a relatively easy job... but they all look easy until you start pulling things apart
I'd also be interested to hear about not only how the car goes afterwards (I reckon you'll notice a little, as the increased air flow will help, its just a case of by how much), but how it sounds! I'm guessing you'll hear a slight sucking noise at low revs, and a deeper growl as the revs build up...

Hi LRO,

Just to throw some additional information in on your queries from my own experience.

Air Filter

Forget getting or feeling any power difference when adding an air filter. The best way to test this is to dyno the car with and without a clean OEM filter and you’ll find there’s no difference in power output.

I’ve installed a Cobalt cold air intake that hangs almost vertically from the filter box and takes in fresh air from the grill opening. http://www.miatamania.com/Browse/PlateM ... onentID=31
It’s the same tuned length as the stock unit that sits horizontally behind the bumper. I’ve also fitted a K&N panel filter that replaces the OEM one. There is no discernable increase in power, although Chris Gough has dyno records of a 1 – 2 kW increase. Also there is no difference in intake noise.

If you do consider installing an after market filter you MUST have the intake opening in fresh cool air and not take any air from under the bonnet as this will DECREASE the power output. All cold air intakes for the NC involve removing the front nose, which is pretty easy.

Oil

When my car was under warranty the dealer used a semi synthetic engine oil (Castrol GTX) at the 10,000 kilometre intervals. I independently changed the oil at mid intervals (around 5,000 kilometres or before track days) and used a full synthetic oil, usually Shell 5W-40. Since warranty expired I only use a full synthetic oil, again changing it before track days or at 5,000 intervals.

I’ve been using full synthetic gearbox and diff oil since around the 10,000 kilometre mark. I’ve changed the gearbox three times, the latest about a month ago with Nulon 75W-90. I wouldn’t recommend this oil. The synchros are having trouble doing their job, especially when cold and changing into 2nd. Overall "feel" of the gearbox is worse than when using Castrol Syntrax.

Another thing is to stay away from any "throttle body" type cleaners such as the excellent Subaru one. As the NC has fly-by-wire all hell will break loose