NA6 pedal box
Moderators: timk, Stu, -alex, miata, zombie, Andrew
- mex5
- Learner Driver
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:18 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
NA6 pedal box
Has anyone removed the NA6 brake pedal box? How to do it?
- Rolley
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:59 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
Re: NA6 pedal box
You will cut yourself...
Center the steering wheel.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the Drivers seat (seriously. You will be lying on the floor on you back with your legs on the rear shelf for parts of this job...)
Remove the shroud under the column (2 screws and it's clipped in at the top.)
Remove the Gauge cluster Surround. BE CAREFUL ON NA6 ESPECIALLY AS THEY ARE MADE OF CHEESE....(2 screws and 3 sprung prong clips)
Remove the clam shell from the column (4 screws and it is clipped together)
Unplug everything. (Ignition switch, Wiper/Indicator switch, The harness on to the yellow bottomed relay bolted to the brake pedal box(fuel/IGN???), The brake light switch, The clutch switch if you are pulling that pedal too.)
Remove the bolt through the clamp at the bottom of the column where it disappears through the firewall.
Recenter the steering wheel.
Loosen the two bolts that hold the column up to the dash support bar. (this is where I lie on the floor)
Remove the bolts completely and lower the steering wheel onto your chest. With one arm holding the wheel steady use the other to support and guide the column clamp off the stub shaft on the firewall. Remove the assembly from the car.
Now it's time to attack the pedal boxes.
Disconnect the throttle cable from the Throttle body in the engine bay.
Sitting on the ground next to the car lean in under the dash and disconnect the other end of the cable from the pedal (needle nose pliers are a help here)
Remove the clip and cotter pin that connects the brake pedal to it's pushrod.
Using an assortment of long extension bars unbolt the brake booster from the pedal box.
Remove the bolt that goes up into the dash support on the pedal box bracket.
The pedal box should now be free of the car, pull it to the rear and guide it down and over the brake booster rod and out from under the dash.
If you are removing the clutch pedal it is a similar procedure.
Remove the clip and cotter pin to release the pedal from the master cylinder pushrod.
One of the bolts for the clutch master is in the engine bay and the others are in the cabin.
There is also one on the support bracket up into the dash support the same as the brake pedal box.
Once it's free it is just a matter of wrangling it out from under the dash.
Refitting them is just the reverse of removal with a special mention to the steering column.
When refitting it work out what position works best for you. Either sitting next to the car on the ground and leaning in or my preferred way of lying on my back on the floor. One hand holding the wheel straight and the other to guide the clamp onto the stub shaft.
If you centered the wheels up properly and didn't bump anything too much then you should be able to refit the column with the wheel straight. Once it's in loosely fit the column to dash bolts and climb out and have a look. If it's a little Left/Right hand down then climb back in there, pull it out and refit one tooth in the opposite direction.
FOOTNOTES:
While the Brake/Accellerator pedal is out double check it for cracking on the leg that holds the accelerator pedal.
If its cracking get it welded and reinforced. If it's not cracking get it reinforced. Seriously consider getting a support of some kind welded onto that leg of the pedal box to support it on the firewall so it won't flex and crack in the future.
These are the only photos I have of the procedure (bottom of post), it's not my favourite job so I've never stopped to take pics.
When reconnecting the column wiring on NA6 there are two connectors that are the same that can be mixed up, the wiper switch and ignition switch are the same... So if it wont start, and you have remembered to reconnect the battery... check there.
Also if you have weird return to idle problems make sure the blue plastic thingy is on the clutch pedal. If the brake lights are on all the time, then make sure the plastic thingy is still in place on the brake pedal.
Have fun!


Center the steering wheel.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the Drivers seat (seriously. You will be lying on the floor on you back with your legs on the rear shelf for parts of this job...)
Remove the shroud under the column (2 screws and it's clipped in at the top.)
Remove the Gauge cluster Surround. BE CAREFUL ON NA6 ESPECIALLY AS THEY ARE MADE OF CHEESE....(2 screws and 3 sprung prong clips)
Remove the clam shell from the column (4 screws and it is clipped together)
Unplug everything. (Ignition switch, Wiper/Indicator switch, The harness on to the yellow bottomed relay bolted to the brake pedal box(fuel/IGN???), The brake light switch, The clutch switch if you are pulling that pedal too.)
Remove the bolt through the clamp at the bottom of the column where it disappears through the firewall.
Recenter the steering wheel.
Loosen the two bolts that hold the column up to the dash support bar. (this is where I lie on the floor)
Remove the bolts completely and lower the steering wheel onto your chest. With one arm holding the wheel steady use the other to support and guide the column clamp off the stub shaft on the firewall. Remove the assembly from the car.
Now it's time to attack the pedal boxes.
Disconnect the throttle cable from the Throttle body in the engine bay.
Sitting on the ground next to the car lean in under the dash and disconnect the other end of the cable from the pedal (needle nose pliers are a help here)
Remove the clip and cotter pin that connects the brake pedal to it's pushrod.
Using an assortment of long extension bars unbolt the brake booster from the pedal box.
Remove the bolt that goes up into the dash support on the pedal box bracket.
The pedal box should now be free of the car, pull it to the rear and guide it down and over the brake booster rod and out from under the dash.
If you are removing the clutch pedal it is a similar procedure.
Remove the clip and cotter pin to release the pedal from the master cylinder pushrod.
One of the bolts for the clutch master is in the engine bay and the others are in the cabin.
There is also one on the support bracket up into the dash support the same as the brake pedal box.
Once it's free it is just a matter of wrangling it out from under the dash.
Refitting them is just the reverse of removal with a special mention to the steering column.
When refitting it work out what position works best for you. Either sitting next to the car on the ground and leaning in or my preferred way of lying on my back on the floor. One hand holding the wheel straight and the other to guide the clamp onto the stub shaft.
If you centered the wheels up properly and didn't bump anything too much then you should be able to refit the column with the wheel straight. Once it's in loosely fit the column to dash bolts and climb out and have a look. If it's a little Left/Right hand down then climb back in there, pull it out and refit one tooth in the opposite direction.
FOOTNOTES:
While the Brake/Accellerator pedal is out double check it for cracking on the leg that holds the accelerator pedal.
If its cracking get it welded and reinforced. If it's not cracking get it reinforced. Seriously consider getting a support of some kind welded onto that leg of the pedal box to support it on the firewall so it won't flex and crack in the future.
These are the only photos I have of the procedure (bottom of post), it's not my favourite job so I've never stopped to take pics.
When reconnecting the column wiring on NA6 there are two connectors that are the same that can be mixed up, the wiper switch and ignition switch are the same... So if it wont start, and you have remembered to reconnect the battery... check there.
Also if you have weird return to idle problems make sure the blue plastic thingy is on the clutch pedal. If the brake lights are on all the time, then make sure the plastic thingy is still in place on the brake pedal.
Have fun!


- mex5
- Learner Driver
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:18 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: NA6 pedal box
Thank you very much Rolley for all the information.
Before posting this question, I did manage to squeeze myself under the dashboard. For a while I was only looking at what fits where because it is difficult to get the work lamp down there. Then I managed to loosen some of the nuts. I could not reach the one on the top right corner. It seemed like there is a lot to do before I can get to the pedal box.
The reason I need to get the pedal box out is because it is cracked at the accelerator end. I thought of using a metal strip and riveting everything together, instead of getting the assembly out. But it is going to be a quite a challenge drilling and riveting in that space.
Before posting this question, I did manage to squeeze myself under the dashboard. For a while I was only looking at what fits where because it is difficult to get the work lamp down there. Then I managed to loosen some of the nuts. I could not reach the one on the top right corner. It seemed like there is a lot to do before I can get to the pedal box.
The reason I need to get the pedal box out is because it is cracked at the accelerator end. I thought of using a metal strip and riveting everything together, instead of getting the assembly out. But it is going to be a quite a challenge drilling and riveting in that space.
-
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 774
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 7:38 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sth. East Brisbane
Re: NA6 pedal box
I would like to add my thanks. Last week I followed this guide to remove both pedal boxes from my blue NA which is being parted-out. Due to poor eyes and general incompetence got a little stuck on the clutch pedal. Turns out that on mine there is a circlip (not a cotter pin) to release the pedal from the master cylinder pushrod. For the benefit of others who may follow...


BlackLeaf
R.I.P. 90 Mariner Blue, 12/12/90 - 10/12/15
#321 89 Classic Red, 04/12/15 ->
R.I.P. 90 Mariner Blue, 12/12/90 - 10/12/15
#321 89 Classic Red, 04/12/15 ->
- StanTheMan
- Forum legend
- Posts: 6824
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Balgowlah
Re: NA6 pedal box
Ohhh man this is a shocker.
I've cleared the booster thingy but still getting it stick behind the steering thing.
Decide to have a rest and a beer. Go back to it later today when it's not so hot.
I've cleared the booster thingy but still getting it stick behind the steering thing.
Decide to have a rest and a beer. Go back to it later today when it's not so hot.
Satans Ride called F33nix the resurrected NA6
-
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 7468
- Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:49 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Purga, QLD
Re: NA6 pedal box
Agree hot, 47 inside the shed!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests