Squishy Clutch?? HELP!!

Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers

Moderators: timk, Stu, -alex, miata, StanTheMan, greenMachine, ManiacLachy, Daffy, zombie, Andrew, The American, Lokiel

User avatar
STV
Fast Driver
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:38 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2

Squishy Clutch?? HELP!!

Postby STV » Sun Aug 20, 2006 6:30 pm

Howdy Folks..
the other day, i opened up my little beast, jumped in, started her up etc etc

BUT... when i depressed the clutch to select reverse, the transmission wouldnt engage. i then tried to put her into any other gear, and none of them could successfully be selected.

i eventually managed to get out of my driveway, but it seems as though my clucth is failing to dis-engage the engine from the tranny...

what could be causing this?

is there anything i can do to fix it?

how much will it cost to repair :cry: :cry: ?

Thanks folks..
STV
Where is 'Home Sweet Home'?

User avatar
rodent
강남 스타일
Posts: 801
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:17 pm
Vehicle: NA8
Location: Sydney West

Postby rodent » Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:52 pm

Does pumping the pedal for some time help?

Check your clutch fluid level (it's the cylindrical thingy mounted to the drivers' side of the firewall). If fluid level is still ok, then it's either your master cylinder or slave cylinder that's on it's way out - my money's on the slave as it seems to be a fairly common problem.

Replacement slave is $80-$100ish and master is about double that, plus paying your mech to put it in and replace the hydraulic fluid. You can also try to rebuild it for much less.

Hope this helps :D

jonno.
Image

User avatar
JBT
Speed Racer
Posts: 7946
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NC
Location: Brisbane

Postby JBT » Sun Aug 20, 2006 9:40 pm

My guesses :|

The cause: Hydraulic failure :(

The fix: Repair or replace clutch slave cylinder - usual suspect. May also need to look at the clutch master cylinder too but you could be lucky.

The cost: DIY $20 to $250 depending on the problem(s). Mechanic $100 - $500 depending on labour/parts needed which will depend on the actual problem(s).

Temporary fix: Fill clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and be prepared to pump the pedal each time you need to change gear.

Prevention: Change/flush hydraulic fluid every 18 months to 2 years.
Image

User avatar
STV
Fast Driver
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:38 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2

Postby STV » Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:21 pm

Thanks alot guys.
I checked the (i think) clutch slave resovoir (tiny canister?) and it was totally empty!

Took a BI-ARTCH of a trip to the servo to get some brake/clutch fluid...
The resovoir only took about 100ml?? if that?!
It seemed like a tiny amount, but it made enough of a difference to make the drive home heaps better...

I still seem to need to pump the clutch, but at least i can drive!

Car will be fully serviced thru the week (i will take it to a pro as i dont have the time, tools skills or patience to do it for myself!).

The next Syd dodgy day i will be there to see how you guys do everything, and will start to do my own stuff from then on!

thnaks again

STV
Where is 'Home Sweet Home'?

User avatar
JBT
Speed Racer
Posts: 7946
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NC
Location: Brisbane

Re:

Postby JBT » Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:51 am

happi_steve wrote:Car will be fully serviced thru the week (i will take it to a pro as i dont have the time, tools skills or patience to do it for myself!).

Get them to completely flush your brake system too or you could have a similar problem with the brakes..............but with more dire consequences :shock: .
Image

User avatar
bruce
Speed Racer
Posts: 7788
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA8 - Turbo
Location: Victoria
Contact:

Postby bruce » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:56 am

My mini once had I think the same problem. The fluid was leaking into the cabin under the carpet - I couldn't figure out where it was all going as I kept topping it up. I wonder where yours is going?

User avatar
JBT
Speed Racer
Posts: 7946
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NC
Location: Brisbane

Re:

Postby JBT » Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:01 pm

bruce wrote:I wonder where yours is going?

Onto the road if it's the slave cylinder (90% of the cases with an MX-5)
Image

User avatar
STV
Fast Driver
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:38 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2

Postby STV » Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:16 pm

after i topped the fluid up on Sunday night (it is now Monday evening), the resovoir still shows that it is full, but the clutch is still playing up something shocking! I have been booked in to get t done on Wed morning...
i can last that long...
where it all went initially... (looks confused and shrugs shoulders...)

I will definately get them to bleed the brakes as well...
i am going to get the engine serviced, the clutch repaired/serviced, the gearbox and diff done too...

THEN if anything goes wrong with it....
Thanks again for the help
STV
Where is 'Home Sweet Home'?

User avatar
JBT
Speed Racer
Posts: 7946
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NC
Location: Brisbane

Postby JBT » Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:27 pm

The reason it still feels horrible is because the hydraulic lines are full of air now. That's why you'll need to pump it a bit prior to each gear change until it is fixed and bled.
Image

User avatar
STV
Fast Driver
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:38 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2

Postby STV » Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:09 pm

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh....

Is there a DIY way to bleed the clutch??

I have heard of people bleeding their brakes for the same purpose, but i honestly had no idea that it was even necessary to be done on a clutch...

if it is possible... what tools are needed, and realistically, how difficult is it??

thanks JBT, my brain is slowely starting to take in more motoring knowledge from this forum!

STV
Where is 'Home Sweet Home'?

User avatar
Boags
Speed Racer
Posts: 3533
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:25 pm
Vehicle: NB SP
Location: Brisvegas
Contact:

Postby Boags » Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:37 pm

Hi Steve,

You can get to the bleed nipple through the drivers side front wheel well. Take the wheel off to give yourself some room, and you'll need a length of tube to go over the nipple, a 10mm ring spanner and a friend to pump the clutch pedal... :D

Put the ring spanner over the bleed nipple, then put the pipe over it.

Get your mate to pump the clutch a few times then hold his foot flat to the floor. Release the bleed nipple, let the fluids (and air bubbles) escape, tighten the bleed nipple, and repeat several times until no more air bubbles come out, and only new clean fluid comes.

*Make sure the fluid reservoir in the engine bay doesn't get empty, or you will be pumping air through again.* The clutch reservoir is on the drivers of the firewall.

Good luck.

Boags 8)
Spartan Motor Sport : http://www.SpartanMS.com.au

User avatar
STV
Fast Driver
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:38 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2

Postby STV » Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:18 pm

oooookkkkkk...
I dropped Seneorita to the mechanics this morning. i got a call a bit later and he said that he would like to replace both the master and the slave.
I thought the proce was reasonable, so i said go ahead.

Picked her up at about lunchish (great service) and drove her back to work to finish off the day.

On the way home, enjoying my new-found cylinders, the clutch pedal went seriously limp, had no feeling AT ALL and did SFA!!

I rolled her to the side of the road and called the mech dude that did the job today...

Apparently, there is a pin which joins the master to the slave cylinder, and it had completely come out from where it should have been!

he did a quick road side job, and i got home... will be returning the car to him tomorrow so that he can ensure that it doesnt happen again...

Any hints on what may have caused this??

(sorry about the long post!)

STV
Where is 'Home Sweet Home'?

User avatar
JBT
Speed Racer
Posts: 7946
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NC
Location: Brisbane

Re:

Postby JBT » Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:47 pm

happi_steve wrote:Apparently, there is a pin which joins the master to the slave cylinder, and it had completely come out from where it should have been!

Any hints on what may have caused this??

There is no pin joining the master and slave - just a hydraulic line.

There is a pin that pokes out the back of the slave cylinder (41-341 in the diagram below) that engages the clutch release lever. If it came out you'd get those symptoms. I'm stuffed if I know how it could come out unless it was never properly engaged when they fitted the slave cylinder.

Image

I'd be interested to hear the outcome. Where did he go to on the car to repair it on the road side - under the car, under the bonnet or in the footwell?
Image

User avatar
STV
Fast Driver
Posts: 269
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:38 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2

Postby STV » Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:11 pm

Thanks for the info JBT,
the mech dude reached in underneath the drivers-side front tyre well.
he got me to pump the clutch a few times, while he reached in under with a pair of pliars to re-insert the 'pin'.

it definately was part 41-341 that he put back in, i watched him do it.

i am glad that he came out to do it on the spot, but still pissed that it happened at all...

I will let you all know the outcome of this tomorrow..

STV
Where is 'Home Sweet Home'?

User avatar
sabretooth
Speed Racer
Posts: 2119
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA8 - Turbo

Postby sabretooth » Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:22 pm

I'm amazed that it managed to come out. In theory it only should do that if the pivot arm is bent or the slave cylinder isn't mounted properly.


Return to “MX5 Engines, Transmission & Final Drive”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest