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Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers

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Sean
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Re:

Postby Sean » Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:51 pm

kula wrote:which is the fastest MX5 in japan..

notice, no turbo.
:(


Notice Nitrous....

Not legal for the streets here and more expensive than turbo...

I've tried both. :?
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Re:

Postby Babalouie » Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:53 pm

kula wrote:yeah its a tough call these days....

these two things are really making me not want to turbo my car:

http://www.fuji-racing.com/fujiracing_009.htm

and

http://translate.google.com/translate?s ... emo1%2ehtm

which is the fastest MX5 in japan..

notice, no turbo.
:(


Ahh yes, but if corners aren't involved then this is fastest:
http://www.mecha-doc.com/democar/index.html
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Postby DOYLMX5 » Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:56 pm

Ok i will give all the details on my car. Standard everything except pod filter, genie extractors, high flow cat, kong adjustable shocks, eibach springs, viscous lsd and bigger, wider wheels. Yes i agree is a low to drive and handle like it is on rails but i am doing a typical guy thing and i want MORE! I like the sound of getting the bumpies cams and finishing off the exhaust... Everyone here is making it so difficult for me to choose a path. This post was made by mobile phone at work! Jason

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Postby Rob E » Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:53 pm

Jason, if you want to go down the NA path, at least transplant a 1.8 so you have some more cubes to play with 8)

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Postby adamjp » Mon Feb 19, 2007 4:26 pm

at least transplant a 1.8 so you have some more cubes to play with


Why?

~200cc with an engine that is acknowledged as being less responsive than the 1600? Phhhfftt! You have not sold me.

The only major gains I can see is that you have no possibility of having a short nose failure and a late model VICS engine may also offer advantages, but will cost more too. I would agree completely if you are looking at the stroker kit from Flyin Miata, but I suspect that is beyond most peoples means.

The minus marks really centre around the minimum $1500 you need to pay to convert, plus the issues with rego and insurance. To do this properly, you should also fit the larger brakes and diff.

Modding the 1600 is more cost effective and in the end, given the same modifications (NA of FI), the B6 and the BP will differ in the real world or on the track by the skill of the driver, not the power of the engine.
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Re:

Postby Sean » Mon Feb 19, 2007 6:00 pm

Babalouie wrote:
kula wrote:yeah its a tough call these days....

these two things are really making me not want to turbo my car:

http://www.fuji-racing.com/fujiracing_009.htm

and

http://translate.google.com/translate?s ... emo1%2ehtm

which is the fastest MX5 in japan..

notice, no turbo.
:(


Ahh yes, but if corners aren't involved then this is fastest:
http://www.mecha-doc.com/democar/index.html


520 PS :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: 8)
When results speak for themselves - don't interrupt.

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Re:

Postby neil d » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:31 pm

DOYLMX5 wrote:Ok i will give all the details on my car. Standard everything except pod filter, genie extractors, high flow cat, kong adjustable shocks, eibach springs, viscous lsd and bigger, wider wheels. Yes i agree is a low to drive and handle like it is on rails but i am doing a typical guy thing and i want MORE! I like the sound of getting the bumpies cams and finishing off the exhaust... Everyone here is making it so difficult for me to choose a path. This post was made by mobile phone at work! Jason


One of the only limiting factors here is your budget :mrgreen:

So give us a budget and we will work to that!

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Re:

Postby Rob E » Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:53 pm

adamjp wrote:
at least transplant a 1.8 so you have some more cubes to play with


Why?

~200cc with an engine that is acknowledged as being less responsive than the 1600? Phhhfftt! You have not sold me.

The only major gains I can see is that you have no possibility of having a short nose failure and a late model VICS engine may also offer advantages, but will cost more too. I would agree completely if you are looking at the stroker kit from Flyin Miata, but I suspect that is beyond most peoples means.

The minus marks really centre around the minimum $1500 you need to pay to convert, plus the issues with rego and insurance. To do this properly, you should also fit the larger brakes and diff.

Modding the 1600 is more cost effective and in the end, given the same modifications (NA of FI), the B6 and the BP will differ in the real world or on the track by the skill of the driver, not the power of the engine.


Hmmm....lets see, worn old B6 down on comp and power, 85kw straight from the factory, or a '99 series BP from an import with a lot less klms and 107kw from the factory. Put those two engines in the same NA6 chassis and tell me that driver skill will be the difference 8)

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Postby adamjp » Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:19 pm

Hmmm....lets see, worn old B6 down on comp and power, 85kw straight from the factory, or a '99 series BP from an import with a lot less klms and 107kw from the factory. Put those two engines in the same NA6 chassis and tell me that driver skill will be the difference


Rob, I think you missed the point.

How much does a 99+ BP engine (with inlet, injectors, belts, etc.) cost?

For the cost of the BP Engine alone I would be surprised if you could not easily rebuild a B6 to a very fit state, with new pistons & rings($400), rebuilt head ($400), water pump ($80), cam belt ($70), gasket kits ($300), bearings ($50) = $1300.

You don't necessarily need the pistons either, just the rings (-$350). If you are going FI, you would go the low-comp pistons to allow for more boost, they are the same price as the stock ones.

My understanding of the usual BP upgrade into a B6 includes the use of the B6 ECU (pre OBD I), throttle, flapper door AFM and clutch/flywheel. You essentially get a gain of 200cc without the smarter fuel system of the 99+ (OBD II). You usually put on a set of extractors as these are the easiest way to fit the exhaust system (but these add $300 for the cheapest extractors you can buy). How much does the early BP alternator cost? ($80?) I understand that the 99+ one won't work properly with the early ECU and the B6 one won't fit. (happy to be corrected here though 'cause I think it would fit). Your 'worn old' B6 is worth about $200, if you can find a buyer.

I would be interested to learn the power produced, but with the extractors emptying into the stock 1.6 exhaust system with it's 15yo dunger CAT and restrictive mufflers I am not confident of 107kw.

Throw in the $300 for extractors you need for the BP conversion anyway and your B6 will challenge the basic BP very easily in all respects. You will know that your engine is going to last quite nicely and no problems with rego or insurance. Bigger engine = bigger brakes according to the rego folks (+$500+).

If you intend to go FI, IMHO you have a much better starting point than an import BP, and the B6 FI kits seem cheaper than BP kits. Bigger brakes would be essential here either way for legal registration.


I was talking ALL modifications the same, not a worn engine V a low km import - they are not the same price or condition. If we stick to what you get for adding $$ to the basic car the BP just does not add enough value for me to consider it. Your value curve might be different.
Adam
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Sean
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Postby Sean » Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:31 pm

Pointless arguement fellas.

If you want cheap power, sell the MX5 and buy a stock 180sx with just a boost controller wound up.
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Postby DOYLMX5 » Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:18 am

Is not a pointless aregument.
mx5s are way cooler than 180s IMHO...
Well a lot need lots of works first but in general I think they are better cars.
No I haven't owned one but I have owned the 180s sister car, the s13 silvia. Engine blew within 2 weeks.

But back to the matter at hand.

I like the sound of getting the engine pretty much rebuilt, with a few mods for NA which can also help for FI. something like the cams, lifters, pistons etc.

I am really glad I asked you guys this, am getting some gold :D

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Re:

Postby Okibi » Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:56 am

adamjp wrote:How much does a 99+ BP engine (with inlet, injectors, belts, etc.) cost?...


The low KM NB8A engine i'm getting is $2k plus shipping, might be able to get cheaper if you have time to shop around.
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Postby Craig » Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:04 am

There's a 2002 front cut in the Trading Post for 3300 including the 6 speed, brakes and computer. That'd make for a very tasty NA transplant indeed! 8)
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Okibi
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Postby Okibi » Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:09 am

There was one I saw around that price but no brakes on the front cut.
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Postby Okibi » Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:11 am

Jase,

I think the next step for more power would be to get a plug in Wolf ECU (and perhaps some cams).

That way you'll make a little more power and the ECU can still be used no matter which path you end up taking.

OR go the 1.8 rear torsen conversion

sooo many things to spend money on. :?
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.


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