kula wrote:which is the fastest MX5 in japan..
notice, no turbo.
Notice Nitrous....
Not legal for the streets here and more expensive than turbo...
I've tried both.

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kula wrote:which is the fastest MX5 in japan..
notice, no turbo.
kula wrote:yeah its a tough call these days....
these two things are really making me not want to turbo my car:
http://www.fuji-racing.com/fujiracing_009.htm
and
http://translate.google.com/translate?s ... emo1%2ehtm
which is the fastest MX5 in japan..
notice, no turbo.
at least transplant a 1.8 so you have some more cubes to play with
Babalouie wrote:kula wrote:yeah its a tough call these days....
these two things are really making me not want to turbo my car:
http://www.fuji-racing.com/fujiracing_009.htm
and
http://translate.google.com/translate?s ... emo1%2ehtm
which is the fastest MX5 in japan..
notice, no turbo.
Ahh yes, but if corners aren't involved then this is fastest:
http://www.mecha-doc.com/democar/index.html
DOYLMX5 wrote:Ok i will give all the details on my car. Standard everything except pod filter, genie extractors, high flow cat, kong adjustable shocks, eibach springs, viscous lsd and bigger, wider wheels. Yes i agree is a low to drive and handle like it is on rails but i am doing a typical guy thing and i want MORE! I like the sound of getting the bumpies cams and finishing off the exhaust... Everyone here is making it so difficult for me to choose a path. This post was made by mobile phone at work! Jason
adamjp wrote:at least transplant a 1.8 so you have some more cubes to play with
Why?
~200cc with an engine that is acknowledged as being less responsive than the 1600? Phhhfftt! You have not sold me.
The only major gains I can see is that you have no possibility of having a short nose failure and a late model VICS engine may also offer advantages, but will cost more too. I would agree completely if you are looking at the stroker kit from Flyin Miata, but I suspect that is beyond most peoples means.
The minus marks really centre around the minimum $1500 you need to pay to convert, plus the issues with rego and insurance. To do this properly, you should also fit the larger brakes and diff.
Modding the 1600 is more cost effective and in the end, given the same modifications (NA of FI), the B6 and the BP will differ in the real world or on the track by the skill of the driver, not the power of the engine.
Hmmm....lets see, worn old B6 down on comp and power, 85kw straight from the factory, or a '99 series BP from an import with a lot less klms and 107kw from the factory. Put those two engines in the same NA6 chassis and tell me that driver skill will be the difference
adamjp wrote:How much does a 99+ BP engine (with inlet, injectors, belts, etc.) cost?...
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