Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001 vs PP2 vs rest?

[wun911]

I kinda have that mentality, put on really good tyres and beat the competition.

Beats spending half a day removing AC and you still can't beat the competition.

If you really want even playing field, go hire some go carts.

[Moto]

I've just done my second track day on Adrenalins, and they have been fantastic!

Once they heat up they get nice and sticky, and like Wun said, very predictable. Only after about 9 or 10 laps they start to get too hot and let go a little bit, but they will give you plenty of warning before spitting you into the dirt.

[Charlie Brown]

Suggesting that you should choose a sub-spec tyre to be fair to the competition is a little backward IMHO. You should be trying to develop yourself and your car within the spirit of the competition.

I said nothing about putting sub quality tyres on. I’d be fitting the best tyres within the rules of the class.

I’m in full agreement with developing driver and car to their full potential, within the rules.

Maybe I wasn’t clear previously in what I was saying.

Try it this way.
Class A is for stock cars.
Car A has tyres as fitted from the factory.
Car B has the best tyres money can buy to be Class A legal.
Car C fits faux R-Spec tyres knowing it isn’t Class A legal and is able to slip through scrutineering without being picked up.

Cars A & B race round the track finishing with a 1:19.6 and a 1:19.5 respectively. The drivers come away smiling, slapping each other on the back and talking about how next time the results will be reversed.

The driver of Car C races round the track, puts his/her car in the garage after each run away from prying eyes and wins the Class with a 1:19.1, or does a 1:20.1 to be third. In either scenario I’d hope the driver of Car C has a hollow feeling knowing he/she was cheating by using faux R-Spec tyres.

I play club golf and as any golfer knows there is a high reliance on honesty in the game. If you are caught intentionally cheating (the old leather wedge, poor counting of shots, etc, etc.) you may get one warning. Do it again and you’re kicked out and your name is mud.

What satisfaction is there by cheating to win a class or put down a better time? I’d rather turn in a 1:19.7 and enjoy the camaraderie of the drivers from Cars A & B and try and reverse the finishing positions next time.

[Charlie Brown]

Why would it be cheating if the RT615 is a street spec tyre. Read my first post, it's a street compound tyre with an aggressive tread and I'm pretty sure that's what the rules state as well.

You would be car B in your example.

Seems you missed my post quoted from directly from the Falken web site:
"RT 615 - Motorsport grade cap compound"

D01s, D03's, R888s, A032R’s, etc are all street legal tyres as well but they are not acceptable in Class 1.

I admit RT615s are a grey area but if in doubt I'd speak with the competition secretary if/when joining the Club.

[Old Dude]

Hi guys thanks for all of the good info, Im about to buy new tyres for my 205/45x16 and was thinking about both tyres,
I think the PP2 are the way to go. I got 48000ks on the original ER30.

[Old Dude]

Has anyone tried the Dunlop Direnza DZ 101, I can get these for about $189 compared to $290 for the PP2's there supposed to be pretty good alround.

[sweep77]

The rt615's are allowed in standard and clubman class in vic mx5 racing as far as i'm aware. Their not an r compound tyre but they are stickier than a normal road tyre which kinda puts it in no-mans land. so if you have the money they are great but kinda leaves the people running on a budget at a disadvantage running standard road tyres. Same thing goes for the Hankook rs2.

[KRM]

Just to add to CB's point. My car is NA6 with suspension mods only running P6000 tyres (Class 3). I use to have a great comp with another car that was very similar in setup. We would trade fastest times by about 0.2 seconds. The evenness was the best part of the fun. It was down to driver's skill not modifications.

He has upgraded to an NC and is trying to catch CB.

Also in class 3 the majority of the cars have engine and exhaust mods but I am still catching some of these cars.

If I put on RT615's and only got 0.5 sec improvement I would have thought I was ripped off.

[Moto]

I've just done another track day on my Adrenalin's (3rd one) and they are starting to get a bit shitty, not as much grip on the front and starting to understeer more.

Dropping the pressures down to 36 hot made a decent difference.

It's also possible i'm just out driving the tyres now, considering I shaved almost 5 seconds off my laptime...

[tank]

Bridgestone RE001 feel good up to around 8 to 9/10s. Thats why they are a great street tyre. Lots of grip and response in the dry. Decent enough in the wet. But late braking in the wet is not recommended at all.

Start pushing to 10/10s or overdriving the tyre, like on Oran Park GP circuit and its a different story. There's decent amount of grip for sure, but not enough feedback to the driver. I really need to take a brave pill before going through the 'dog-leg' section of the track flat out (a high speed right then left). The on-the-limit window is very small or non-existent. So you are either gripping or sliding rather than dancing the car on-the-limit (riding the wave). The only positive I can say about the RE001 is they are awesome under brakes in the dry. The car is just so stable especially the rear-end. And you can really use this to your advantage.

[Old Dude]

Hi guys
Just bought 4 PP2 205/45x16 for the NB, Originally I had Bridgestone ER30 with 48000Km,

Now the PP2 are only a couple of hours old and they seem to grip OK but I have to turn the steering wheel more with these tyres to get the same directional responce that I had with the Other tyres.

I know that they need to settle themselves in but is that normal with these tyres I have pushed them a bit and they held on well, but just needed more turn in.
Thanks

Old Dude

[JBT]

I know that they need to settle themselves in but is that normal with these tyres

Yep, normal with all new tyres. Give them a few hundred kilometres to scrub in. Make sure your wheel alignment is OK too.

[Old Dude]

Thanks JBT
I had to sell the kids to buy these tyres, and thought maybe I had made the wrong decision .There was about $40.00 a corner more than the RE001's
I will give them a bit of time and see what happens, now I have to get the roll bar next...!!! just have to convince the better half

[SPy vs. SPy]

Thanks JBT
I had to sell the kids to buy these tyres, and thought maybe I had made the wrong decision .There was about $40.00 a corner more than the RE001's
I will give them a bit of time and see what happens, now I have to get the roll bar next...!!! just have to convince the better half

Per what JBT said . . .

Put some proper air in them, give em a good 500km or more to scrub off the mould lube, get a good alignment, see CT's specs in here somewhere.

They should murder the ER30's then.

SPy

[NMX516]

And when SPy says "some decent air", he means start at 36 psi cold. Increase from there if you still find them a little squirmy at 36.