NC Whiteline sway bars

[Garry]

OD,

Changing the sway bars was the first suspension mod I did to my N88B and they did help a lot, though it wasn't as big a change to the feel of the car that changing the shocks made. I'm actually running a custom KMac rear bar on my car. I found the rear Whiteline bar to be to stiff for the SP.

[Old Dude]

Thanks Garry
I had never heard of white line until I bought the mx5, I knew of Kmac, selby and the likes but not White line. I am really happy with the way mine handles with the standard bar, I didn't think there would be that bigger difference with after market bars, but obviously there is.
Thanks
Old Dude

[orx626]

I had never heard of white line until I bought the mx5, I knew of Kmac, selby and the likes but not White line.

Hi Dale, Whiteline and Selby are one of the same.....I think Whiteline bought out Selby quite a few years ago. Someone else may be able to confirm this.

Cheers,
Danny

[Steampunk]

Hi Dale, Whiteline and Selby are one of the same.....I think Whiteline bought out Selby quite a few years ago. Someone else may be able to confirm this.

Confirmed.
up to the early 90's, when you buy a "Whiteline" anti-sway bar, you get it in a Selby's box, coloured white, blue, yellow.
I think the main printing on it is something like "Whiteline, Flat Out" "by Selby's"

[Old Dude]

Thanks guys
I just keep learning on this forum , that makes sense now, as I have been driving SUV's for the last 10years, I haven't been to worried about sway bars.

Probably the worst thing about this forum is you hear about all this great stuff and then you want it and then you find out you can't afford it , of well such is life.
Cheers
Old Dude

[Sailor]

AFAIK, SElbys are still independant.
They bend bars for a number of suppliers incl Whileline and Pedders.

My Pedders NC adjustable bars are Selby.

[Penguin]

Just had the Whitelines fitted to the NC.

I agree with JBT, it makes the car feel more connected to the ground. That and the Tein springs has transformed the car.

The fitted put the rear setting on the middle and the front on hard. I feel like I am getting a bit of understeer, is that other people's experience?

I would like to try the softer front setting. But when I jacked up the car I loaded up the sway bar so that the boolt was tight. Any suggestions as to a jacking arrangement whereby the bolt would be easier to remove?

P

[JBT]

Not sure whether you're talking about settings for the Teins or the sway bars Penguin. My sway bars are set soft at the front and mid at the rear. I'm still on OEM springs and shocks. Car has pretty much neutral handling. This table might help: http://www.240edge.com/performance/reference.pdf

[Penguin]

Not sure whether you're talking about settings for the Teins or the sway bars Penguin. My sway bars are set soft at the front and mid at the rear. I'm still on OEM springs and shocks. Car has pretty much neutral handling. This table might help: http://www.240edge.com/performance/reference.pdf

Thanks for the reference - I think your front setting of soft at the front is better than mine at hard. Now I just have to work out how to change the setting without damaging the bolt.

p

[PUR157]

Just use a 6pt. socket... or you round the crap out of it...

[Penguin]

Just use a 6pt. socket... or you round the crap out of it...

I can get the nut off - just need to get the pesky bolt out of the hole without damaging the thread

P

[JBT]

Loosen both link nuts (one each side) by a few threads at the sway bar. Now tap on the nut with a soft faced hammer or use a normal hammer with a block of wood between it and the nut. The link should come free of the sway bar hole and then you can undo the nut completely. A spray of CRC might help it along too. You may also need to loosen the nut where the link attaches to the suspension arm.

[Charlie Brown]

Your problem is that you have the car jacked up on one side thus loading the sway bar. You will never get the bolt out.
Sit it on level ground. Loosen the nut 5 or 6 turns, tap the nut on the end with a hammer to break the seal and then remove the nut and end link.
Go to the other side and do the same. Now swing the bar into position to fit on the "soft" setting and tighten up the nut. Don't over tighten it as they can snap easily. Go and do the other side of the bar.

I've found that the front bar hard setting induces too much understeer even with the rear set on full hard so for all track and road work the front is on soft. I then adjust the rear to suit the track but have it set on the middle for the road.

With this rear set up the handling is neutral, on full hard the car oversteers and on full soft understeers.

Hope that helps.

[Penguin]

Thanks JBT and CB

I love forums, it gives the backyard guy a bit of confidence to try things.

As I cannot get to the adjuster link with the car on the ground, I might try jacking the car up and putting blocks under the front wheels to make the can level. This should leave the swaybar unloaded. What do you think?

Love the handling with the swaybars though. I can throw the car into roundabouts now.

P

[Charlie Brown]

It's easy to get to on the ground.

Turn the steering wheel fully left and undo the drivers side link from behind the wheel.
Then turn the wheel to the right and undo the passenger side.