Serious brake ducting, think.. Well i dont know haha

[NitroDann]

Hey guys, along the same lines as my other ducting thread... Who has spent some time doing serious ducting to the front brakes? Ive been looking at the factory front brake 'sheilds' and i want to ram heaps more air (and maybe a mist of water) into the disk centre. I feel that if im going to the trouble to force it in, then it needs to be a sealed syste up to the disk, and im finding it hard to seal the stock sheilds with sheet metal. I might just make new ones, and aim a pipe in.

Whats everyone else done?
Photos appreciated.

Dann

[hks_kansei]

the air venting sounds like a good idea, as long as it's aimed correctly (cooling only one side can make funny things happen when only half the rotor expands with heat)


the water mist sounds like it wouldn't be too great, inceased risk of warping/cracking rotors, and also that means you have to have a water tank and pump somewhere to feed it, which adds weight.

[NitroDann]

Water spray on brakes is common. Ive seen a few time attack cars doing it. The spray neednt be any more complicated or heavy than the stock windscreen spray.

The stock cooling aims it at one side, but it has to be. The disks vents are only able to be accessed on the inside. I think you may not understand how vented disks work. The air enters the middle of the disk not the outside peripheral edge.

Dann

[hks_kansei]

The stock cooling aims it at one side, but it has to be. The disks vents are only able to be accessed on the inside. I think you may not understand how vented disks work. The air enters the middle of the disk not the outside peripheral edge.

I do understand how it works, it was a warning since many people who do DIY air guides just arbitrarily cut a hole and shoot air at the disc face. As opposed to the middle hat.

[NitroDann]

Sorry about the misconception on my behalf.

Dann

[Guran]

Dann you should have a look at Hellmun's brake ducting. Cheap but effective.

[Hellmun]

Well mine aren't too serious in scale to things I've seen but I'm one of the few people who's made them. I ran 2" flex-pipe through the front undertray protruding about 1" out of it then turning 90 degrees and pointing directly behind the hubs. I removed approximately 2/3rds of the brake shields so there was a clear path but haven't yet gone to the trouble of making up a method of closing them which I'd strongly recommend, especially if the car is still street dríven. Basically the waterspray is fine when the brakes are hot as it'll simply evaporate off especially when it's in small quantities but on a really wet surface where the brakes can't stay up in high temperatures due to ambient moisture and reduced braking from low grip ducts makes it much worse. You end up with additional cooling and the water can adhere properly and acts as a lubricant. So I hope your pads work really cold .... For a reference when bedding in the Carbotechs your supposed to do 3*80-5kph stops and 3*Race speed - 5 kph stops (I might be remembering the hawks instead thinking about it). Then pull over and let then cool down gradually over an hour with as little airflow as possible. Doing that used to see smoke, smell and fade as the excess resin burned on new pads...these days they aren't even 300C off the infra-red gun whereas before I was at 580C. They seem to bed in fine but it's quite remarkable how much difference it appears to make.

I'd put off the ducting until you really need it, previous I'd been wearing all 3 thermographic heat markers off my DBA4000's. With the ducting I've still got my 500C markers now...though I wouldn't attribute that completely to the ducts. I gave the calipers a clean-up and fresh lube at the same time for the Wakefield 300 enduro 2 years ago when they were made. That said I've never seen brake fade since and mine are small and dodgy. I'd post pics but I've never taken any... plus I can't remember if you saw them at Wakefield earlier this month anyway.

Heh...good timing Bryan. Sniped me writing this

[NitroDann]

I did get a good look at them. I plan on running flex from inside the front high pressure area of another said humongous duct..
my main concern is sealing that flow into the centre of the hat. I could just make another sheild, totally flat right up against the disk with a hole only for the duct. Ie, no scoop.
Thoughts?

As for the water i figured, use a water injection pump and nozzle. And either manually activate it, or use a thermo switch, combined with a trim pot to adjust sensitivity. Once again, i want to see whats possible on stock hardware, just like the other duct thread. Which btw ill update tomorrow.

[Apu]

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

Since the car was turboed, I had brake fade a couple of times at Wakefield. The last one saw me having an off track excursion which broke the dump pipe. Not happy.

So, looking up options:
- BBK...cost
- upgrade pads and rotors...quite likely
- ducting...cheapest option but most fiddly

Car is an NB8C with the bigger brakes and Hawk pads (can't remember which ones though).

Question is, has anyone else done brake ducting in the past years since this thread?

Probably also need to change the way I drive

[Magpie]

I used brake ducts from Trackspeed Engineering






Custom intakes by Automotive Plus (works of art) to fit the GV lip

[oztrackdays]

You inject the water mist not on the metal surface but in the air coming into the cooling vanes or brake duct.

http://www.willallracing.com.au/gtrbrakes.htm

there is a more elaborate version used for WRC cars but we won't need that.

I have a leftover intercooler sprayer I was planning on using.

[kazama]

I used brake ducts from Trackspeed Engineering

very nice

[Apu]

The ducts from the GV lip are a great idea!

[greenMachine]

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=552596

[Apu]

Thinking about this again! Let's see...the options are:

Trackspeed Engineering - US$99 (plates only)

Singular Motorsports / Goodwin Racing - US$119 (plates only)

...I guess the question is, anyone else interested in a group buy? I'd go with Trackspeed since it's ~US$20 less for the same item