sailaholic NA8

[sailaholic]

yah, but from what I've read they, rotate in, opposite directions. Will cheek first though.

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[sailaholic]

Tps working! Only required another round of plenum removal. An email to adaptronic and some trial and error. The details in club roadster didn't really work, the configurations were wrong. unless 1red5 had already played with the pins.

Closed throttle and sweep pins needed to be swapped (2&3) not grnd and sweep (3&4) as per club roadster.
So correct for a toyota tps is
1 black blue sgnd to 5v on tps
2 red with black signal to tps sweep
3 red - throttle closed (not required)
4 green white 5v to grnd on tps

Number relates to the pin position numbers as seen on the BACK of the mazda tps plug (na8)

Voltage with ignition ON is 4.26 volts at closed throttle and 1.02 at full throttle. Signal changes progressive over entire throttle travel.

Will update more later

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[sailaholic]

No Update in ages, despite lots having happened.

Adaptronic is all in and working now. Been running around the last few weeks on "adaptive".

Had a few problems when swapping it over which i intially thought was poor spark or flooding, did some ecu swapping with no result. Then turned to thinking it was a lack of fuel, (symptoms opposite to what they had been the week before) did some more ecu swapping and got the car running on the Mazdaspeed ecu.

Put the Adaptrnoic back in, and it would only fire on WOT situations (where the ecu cuts fuel to prevent flooding. After driving it around for a while now, and alot of the ECU Map being really rich (some sections were 8:1 with my current setup) i'm still inclinded to think it was flooding.....atleast part of the time.

Full Details of the hunt for a cure are here - http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=49188

Car has been driving well so far, but i've been to busy to really set it up properly. It's running a MAP tune, but the MAF sensor is still there and plugged in to give AIT reads. Hopefully will get some free time soon to sort out the correct IAT (need to source the correct plug for the one already installed and then splice it into the exisiting loom.

Will also change over to a TPS based tune when i can get the time to load it and then do basic tuing as it was quite lean. So i'll have to drive it somewhere where the noise isn't a problem and then tune the light load situations and do some test runs up and down the road.

Once that is sorted and and i get fid of the MAF sensor and relocate the Air filter i'll get it tuned. At this stage i've seen intake temps around 60 degrees, so i'd like to pull them down a bit.

I've also got the CD/MP3 player all installed and the WBO2 Gauge hooked up. Unfortunately the cd player is going to have to come out again. I put it at the bottom to make the gauges higher and easier to see...but it's a flip front unit and it fowls on the centre console when you try and use the CD player.

Still trying to decide if i buy a single din gauge holder or make one up too suit some gauges...

I'll also be looking at the brakes soon. I've stood on them hard a couple of times and they don't seem to pull the car up very well despite the pedal being very hard. Seeing as plohl has just installed some new A1RM pads, we will probably go and do some quantative braking tests to see if my impression is real or not.

That about sum up the little that has been happening.....still have the BFB and FR to do as well....sigh.
Good news is i should make novembers first friday of the month meething, though the footwell will still be pretty ugly.

[plohl]

*cough* tofu run *cough*

[NitroDann]

Initial D reference?

Dann

[sailaholic]

Dann, Only if your 86 has a cup of water mounted in it

[NitroDann]

Nope. A bucket of tears.
The passengers tears.


Dann

[plohl]

haha! initial d reference refering to the late night/early morning runs up some roads i am quite fond of

[sailaholic]

Finally some time to update!

Been running the maybe a couple thousand k's now on the adaptronic. Sill sorting some other stuff so have just left it in auto tune. Runs - ok, but actually some parts got worse as the "tune" improved. I'm sure all will be sorted on the dyno.

Looking back on the first post:

Future Plans (Last year 2011)
1. Replace the Mega squirt PNP with a Adaptronic 440 and Remove MAF. Done
2. Toyota COP conversion In progress, Seq Injection and Direct Fire probably to be completed about the same time
3. Install the bigger injectors i got with the car (maybe not needed, but have them now) - Not Done -
4. Adjustable cam gears In the post
5. Quieten the exhaust a touch / remove the resonant frequency from high cruise RPM range. hopefully without loosing the character of it. Not Done thinking of maybe just get a different muffler and back pipe for low noise use and keeping the other for fun time. Will see what the exhuast shop says if i ever get there.
6. Tune and enjoy! Hopefully do a couple of weekend sprints and / or skid pan days - Kinda done, enjoying, though starting to get over it not being finished / tuned

Long term plans (This year 2012 )

These are a bit more nebulous...some may not happen...will depend on $$
1. Cams, head shave, maybe mild port work - re-tune - Inprocess / research

2. Timing belt and water pump with above - will save this till it needs doing, still 30k away.

3. Remove HLA and switch to solid lifters with number 1 - will depend on the advice given by the people doing no 1. Have been informed the NB units are not so good, they don't contact the full face of the cam lobes and that unless your racing fairly seriously, they wont be an issue.

4. Find / Fit Frog arms and front shock tower brace Have decided to ignore the frog arms for now, and probably the tower brace. Not supposed to do much and adds weight. Would probably still be tempted by a brace if it was light & shiny

5. coil overs? not real convinced on this one just yet for 98% street dríven....will wait and see how plohl does haven't dríven the car enough to warrent upgrading these when they work quite well. Shelved this for later down the track. Will probably look at afco's or something if the time comes.

6. Lightened flywheel and new clutch. Thinking about going the 1.6 versions as they are cheaper and should still stand up to the torque available. Still tempted, but i think I'll sit on this until the clutch starts to die, which there is no sign of yet. or until the bank account has recovered from the cams.

7. Change out the seat. I find the standard seat to be reasonably uncomfortable on long drives. Haven't really figured this one out yet, Maybe a Sparco sprint V with the additional lumbar padding. - I seem to have got used to the seat, but haven't done much touring, so that might explain it. I unfortunately seem to always need the space of the commodore when i go somewhere long distance

8. Almost forgot it. Proper CAI, probably down near the front of the rad. Under development / research. Looking at changing the plenum as the current one angles across the front of the engine. Currently looking at a Jenvy unit that help give equal flow to each throttle body and may allow an over radiator intake.

Still haven't had a chance to fit the frame rails ect, but the plan is to get that done this weekend!

I've made some additional purchases along the way.
1. A red hardtop, thought I'd get it and try it for a bit. - Not sold on it yet. I don't mind the look (though i still think black would look better), but i like to have the top down. I've also noticed it seems to rub on the roll bar.

2. Juran oil and water temp fittings adapters. Got these from japan, was only really interested in the oil one, but it made bugger all difference to get both together once post ect was included. Pretty keen to get the oil adapter installed which goes in under the oil filter. However i'm having trouble finding a gauge i like.
I definitely want an electric gauge, and i want it to say oil and be in Celsius scale. I'd prefer one that is a full scale gauge so it's easier to check while driving. Though about a peak recal one, but the costs start to add up then, may as well dash mount a netbook

After seeing Mrphams car, i could be tempted by the side skirts and a rear lip for looks too!

Also considering getting a DDMworks headunit + gauge mounter adapter. Was intending on making one myself, but have been struggling with time alot so maybe it's better just to pay the money and get it finished. Postage might decide on that, as the units not cheap by itself and most US places seem to charge a fortune for shipping.

Haven't got to any event yet, between wanting to get the car tuned properly first and not being able to get time off work easily, i'm guessing it will be maybe a weekend event of two in the second half of the year.

Hopefully i'll be able to report on Sunday how the butterfly brace feels.

[sailaholic]

Butterfly brace in. was a but of a pain between bent rails and the standard issues.

Did it with two people over two (part) days with two people. Install time would depends heavily on rail condition. Could do it in 1 day with good rails.

I used gasket sealer inside and outside of the floor plan to seal against water. If the car lived outside or near the beach I'd have probably have taken the extra time to cold gal the edges of the holes and where the paint had come off the rails. Maybe that's just professional paranoia about dissimilar metals and corrosion. :-( .

If the butterfly section ever needs to come out I think it would be a case of undoing the frame rail bolts and dropping it out.

Only did a very short test drive so far but initial impressions are the car feels flatter and more solid when cornering, but not really the night and day feeling some describe., maybe this is due to the torque box roll bar already installed.

I've made a decision on head and cam work. Will be going for a port, head shave and 9.22 mm lift cams with 270 degree \ 226 @ 50 thou.

So this weekend I'll try and make the weekend run and jdmst meets then the head will come off. Pretty excited.

While its out I think I'll probably get some stuff powder coated. At this stage I'm thinking inlet manifold and valve cover but can't decide what colour. Might also paint the head while its off.

Will be modding the cover for the adjustable cam gears and COP coils at the same time hopefully.

once all that is done I've just got to sort the cai and get it tuned. Really looking forward to getting everything sorted.

Oh and fit the new injectors while the inlet manifold is off!

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[Lokiel]

Butterfly brace in. was a but of a pain between bent rails and the standard issues.
:
Only did a very short test drive so far but initial impressions are the car feels flatter and more solid when cornering, but not really the night and day feeling some describe., maybe this is due to the torque box roll bar already installed.
:

I have FM Frame Rails and the same torque box roll bar on my SE and felt the same way about the frame rails and came up with the the same conclusion as you, the MX5Plus twin hoop roll bar is the BIG difference maker since it virtually eliminates chassis twist.

With the MX5Plus twin hoop roll bar, I'm not sure that the butterfly brace is needed on NAs.

I also felt that my Boss Frog Frog Arms had a more noticeable impact than the Frame Rails (I installed these AFTER the Frame Rails so the fact that I noticed a bigger difference with the Frog Arms to me indicates that they had a bigger impact on rigidity than the Frame Rails).

The Frame Rails do make a very convenient jacking point though - you can lift the whole side of the car up by putting the jack in the middle of one they are that strong (so obviously they must contribute to rigidity).

[the_darkside]

Does it help with the scuttle shake or whatever it's called?

[sailaholic]

Yah pretty happy with the frame rails being protected. Definitely noticed an improvement overall just not an "omg how did.we ever live with out it".

@ darkside. Honestly haven't dríven enough, I did a maybe 2km blockie. This weekend should show a bit more.

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[wozzah1975]

How much distance is there between your ram tubes and the cover?

Woz

[sailaholic]

Hi Woz,

i'm away for work at the moment so i can't measure, but here is a photo from inside the plenum / airbox.



As you can see clearance is pretty small ( in my thoughts) i don't remember exactly but for memory you can only squeeze two or three fingers between the airhorns and the airbox.

I'm looking at fitting one of these
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/accessories/airhorns-filters-and-boxes/jenvey-dynamics/airbox-75mm-inlet-right-top-abt2rt to get better airflow to each trumpet and also so i can change where i'm pulling the air from. The current airbox is shaped so that it must cross the engine which is resulting in hot air pick up at the moment. Seeing as i'm still running A/C and P/S it would be a bit of a nightmare to pull cold air in from that side.

Plan at this stage is to either pull air in from infront of the rad through a panel filter and up over the radiator. If that wont work / turns out to be too expensive i'll route through the side of the plastic stone try and come up into the airbox.

THe airbox can have the intake either on the top or the bottom depending on which one i get, and can also have a flat or recessed backing plate. Flat would give a total depth of 90mm or a recessed back plate which would give a total depth of 140mm.

At this stage, i'm not sure the 140mm would fit due to the brake proportioning valve which i could maybe look at getting relocated?

Your thoughts?

Nick