Selene - Nev's NB SE

[Nevyn72]

Well here's a pic of the 15" version fitted, on a fairly heavily lowered car too.
Would be nice to be able to see the 16" though..... Still it's the first rim that I actually like other than the OEM!

Got a set of these in a 16" on the way, will upload a pick when they are on and fitted


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Great! Look forward to seeing the pics of them installed.
What colour is your car?
What tyres are you going for?

EDIT: according to an online calculator the ideal would be a 205/45 R16 of which there are 21 types available.
See here -> http://tire-size-conversion.com/tiresizes/205-45R16.htm

[Nevyn72]

A few tips for the Stage I installation:

For the exhaust....

2. Soak the exhaust nuts/bolts in penetration fluid the night before you do the installation, it makes the job easier (ESPECIALLY those 3 at the top of the downpipe).

3. A rattle gun really helps with this job; make sure you use impact wrench sockets, they fit tighter than regular sockets so your chances of stripping nuts/boltheads are reduced.

4. NEVER use 12 point sockets - they round off stiff nuts/boltheads far too easily - Impact wrench sockets are 6-point sockets for a reason.

5. The 3 nuts/bolts on the downpipe where it joins the dump pipe are a real bitch to get at. You can get to two of them from the passenger side wheel well but the 3rd one (on top) requires you to access it from underneath the car, along the length of the downpipe. There's a bracket in the way that attaches to the gearbox so you'll need to remove that too - leave it off. You'll need some long socket extensions to reach it. On James' car we also used wobble bars and flex joints to ensure a flush socket fit on the nut so that we wouldn't strip it - I really can't stress that enough and it helps to have a 2nd set of eyes there to ensure that the socket is sitting flush before you attempt to loosen it.

6. It's not uncommon to snap these downpipe studs so make sure to use the penetration oil and be prepared for such an occurrence (ie. a tow to a mechanic may be needed to get it out). We ended up having to replace a stud on James' car - these are commonly available from SuperCheap/Repco/Autobarn in their "twirly-racks".

7. The rubber exhaust hangers will be fused to the exhaust hangers. The easy way to get the exhaust off them is to take a thin screwdriver, pass it between the metal hanger and rubber and squirt in some silicon spray, then they will slide off easily.

The exhaust is a big job so allow a day for it since you have to take off all the underside bracing too - that's when you'll appreciate your rattle gun.

That's why, at this stage, I plan to let the boys install it for me when they do the 100k service and other work!
Happy to let someone else with a hoist and all the right tools have that headache....

The rest I'll install myself along with a heap of other bitz later on.

[Lokiel]

:
That's why, at this stage, I plan to let the boys install it for me when they do the 100k service and other work!
Happy to let someone else with a hoist and all the right tools have that headache....
:

That's probably one of the wisest mod decisions you'll ever make - it's one of those jobs you only ever want to do once as a DIYer.

[Tristan_ACT]

Were they on 15x7, 15x7.5 or 15x8 rims though? 225/50/15, that's sick. With the stock suspension set up would you get any scraping on the guards at all? What's the benefit in going with the 225/45/15, other than less weight?

They were on 15x8's. MINX bought the 225/50/15 BFGs because 225/45/15s were almost impossible to find in Australia for anything less than $300 per tyre back then. They did rub the front fender lining since they're taller than the stock tyre (225/50/15=23.85" diameter; 225/45/15=22.97" diameter; stock NA/NB tyres are typically 23").

Thanks for the info, that is a major bummer as you can get proxes t1r's relatively cheap locally in 225/50/15's so that's what I was thinking if I wasn't to be bothered with the ordering them online

[Nevyn72]

So my nice shiny new, genuine Mazda, chrome fuel filler lid just arrived from the US....... Shame my car isn't an NC......

Checked the order, yep, definitely ordered the right one..... *Sigh*
Hope this doesn't get too ugly sorting it out!

[Okibi]

Bummer

[Nevyn72]

Bummer

Tell me about it!

[sailaholic]

It's still good bling. But yeah not sure if it has an affect stiffness wise.

Plenty of stuff saying the don't work on double wishbone suspension but the why did Mazda fit them if it makes no different.

I guess anything is better then nothing and maybe I was loading it inappropriately for how it works on the car.

Tell us how it rates compared to the eom one.

You could always look for the super rare titanium or carbon fiber rod versions cusco? Did.


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[Nevyn72]

Being an aluminium version I don't expect it to be anywhere near as stiff as the OEM one, but it should be a hell of lot lighter (and prettier) than the factory unit!
It also has the brake cylinder stopper so will be doing more than one job.

I've also read that the brace doesn't do much for a double wishbone setup, however I suspect it may add a bit of stiffness to the front end overall..... Maybe Mazda just put it there because some engineer really wanted to use their wacky combined-strut-tower-bar-oil-catch-can-contraption, got the chief engineer very drunk one night and he agreed?

Tracking is showing it in transit atm so I'll let you know when it shows up.

[sailaholic]

The non turbo cars also ran one sans the bottle, so I guess that young engineer must have been VERY convincing.


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[Nevyn72]

Got a set of these in a 16" on the way, will upload a pick when they are on and fitted

Found an image of the 16" Enkei PF01s on an SE and not so sure I like them anymore, keep coming back to some form of 5-Spoke rim as being my favorite style......

Oh well, time to continue my lazy Sunday morning troll of the net for more images to see if anything else grabs my attention.

[emily_mx5]

RPF01 come in 4x100 17" by 8" +38
Not very hellaflush (lol)
But they look good.


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[yem11n]

These will really set you apart.. I would get them as a daily 16x8 CCW LM5T. When I can let go of my RH 17s. Or when can effort them..

http://www.ccwheel.com/wheels-display.php?view=LM5T

Example: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/15-new ... ehate.html

And they are 5 spoke!

[Nevyn72]

These will really set you apart.. I would get them as a daily 16x8 CCW LM5T. When I can let go of my RH 17s. Or when can effort them..

http://www.ccwheel.com/wheels-display.php?view=LM5T

Example: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/15-new ... ehate.html

And they are 5 spoke!

YIKES!!..... Tell 'em the price son!
Still not bad, however I think I've found the wheels for me, lovely clean, simple 5 spoke design, unfortunately only available in 17", made by some mob called 'RacingHart' or something.....
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In other matters, a question for those in the know on the detailing front.

I have a slight cloudyness on the front of both headlights.
How would you go about cleaning and/or polishing this?

The only stuff I have found online about this involves sanding and recoating the lens which isn't very appealing, it may affect the tinting of the headlights too.....
Anyone else out there had this problem and how did you fix it?

[Regie]

id start off with some Mothers Plastic polish. its not too harsh at all... actually some people have used Brasso too if you have that lying around

They bought up my NB headlights like new,