Selene - Nev's NB SE

[Lokiel]

Seriously though, I actually want to find some way of keeping the factory airbox in place in my final solution..... I've got an idea of how to do that thanks to Emily but it's a job for down the track. I'll have to be satisfied with just deleting the airbox inlet snorkel for now.....

With your fabrication skills and attention to detail, I'm sure you could easily build an airbox for an AEM CAI kit (or install a BEGi cold air box) and it would look a LOT better than the factory airbox.

Sourcing the aluminium for an airbox housing is a lot cheaper if you can find a place that makes large aluminium products (such as toolboxes for trucks/vans) because they'll have plenty of offcuts that are too small for them to use but are perfect for an airbox. Make lots of cardboard templates first though until you're happy with the final design.

I assume you want to keep the factory airbox for legality reasons? If so, from what I understand (and I could be wrong but I'm going to argue this confidently with any cop that pulls me over), as long as the air filter is fully enclosed it's legal.

[Nevyn72]

Seriously though, I actually want to find some way of keeping the factory airbox in place in my final solution..... I've got an idea of how to do that thanks to Emily but it's a job for down the track. I'll have to be satisfied with just deleting the airbox inlet snorkel for now.....

With your fabrication skills and attention to detail, I'm sure you could easily build an airbox for an AEM CAI kit (or install a BEGi cold air box) and it would look a LOT better than the factory airbox.

I actually have an AEM kit sitting on the workbench at the moment but for a range a of reasons don't want to use it. I also priced a BEGi setup but that was going to be around US$500 delivered and is money I'd rather not spend if I can help it. Either option ends up with large box (not very OEM) behind the passenger headlight which I'm not fond of the 'look' of and has other issues associated with it.

I assume you want to keep the factory airbox for legality reasons? If so, from what I understand (and I could be wrong but I'm going to argue this confidently with any cop that pulls me over), as long as the air filter is fully enclosed it's legal.

Partly legality, if a cranky cop sees the large box for the filter, while legal, they're more likely to go hunting for other mods they can defect me on.
Partly on the noise front, I believe that what I have in mind will be able to ultilise the factory box and filter and should be significantly quieter than either the AEM or BEGi. While it will certainly not be as free flowing as either those options it should still be a significant improvement over stock and I'm not too concerned as monster peak power has never been my goal but civility is important to me.....

Furthermore, what I have in mind would actually delete a lot of the factory pipework so should clean things up significantly from what is there.

All being said and done though, this is as much about having a concept and the tinkering to see if it works out. If it doesn't pan out I've always got the AEM kit on the shelf to use!

[Okibi]

Begi box isn't large, I wish it was designed larger.

[Nevyn72]

So, I was thinking that because my radiator is only very slightly browning off, it still had a bit of life in it before I was going to have to replace it.

Unfortunately I've only just noticed this.....





So it looks like replacing the radiator has moved WAY up the list of jobs to do.....

Now for the great challenge of working out what the best option is for a replacement.

I really like that PWR combined radiator/oil cooler but is hugely expensive and would be near impossible to fit given it's so thick. At the very least I would need to get some slimline fans which would add further to cost and still might be too thick to fit in the space.

The cheapest option would be something like this eBay option;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40mm-High-Pe ... 1029156118
However you've got to be a little dubious of the quality at that price.....

[Juicy HiC]

Hey New when you fitted the gas struts did they keep the bonnet bowed when closed? I had some but when I fit them it wasn't flush anymore?

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[Nevyn72]

Hey New when you fitted the gas struts did they keep the bonnet bowed when closed? I had some but when I fit them it wasn't flush anymore?

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Nope, no sign of bowing in the bonnet. They sit flat when the bonnet is closed so there's no vertical force being applied....

Did you use the IL Motorsport version or another brand?

[Nevyn72]

So doing a bit of digging around on the radiator front I've come to the conclusion that getting something in the 40mm thick range will be suitable for my uses and make life a whole lot easier for fitting too....

To go a level above the typical eBay $160 cheapie is desirable from a quality/reliability perspective and so far these are the contenders;
- Cooling pro ~$300
- Koyo 37mm ~$500 landed from the US
- Moshimoto 40mm ~$500 landed from the US
- PWR 40mm ~$800-900

Are there any other options out there I've missed that I should be considering?

What are people's experiences with these brands? (I've done a search and seen what threads there are, more interested in recent experiences)

[Juicy HiC]

Think they were another brand. Will look into the il one's

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[Nevyn72]

Think they were another brand. Will look into the il one's

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I purchased mine from the UK, quite reasonably priced too.
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/chrome-bonnet ... p-144.html

If you don't like the chrome of the IL Motorsport version you could look at the ones Lokiel used...

http://www.rspeed.net/RSpeed_Mazda_Miat ... 50115x.htm

They are a longer strut, black and unlike the IL ones require no drilling of the hinge so easier to install and remove.

My understanding was that people were only experiencing bonnet warpage when using the single sided strut products.
Both my IL and Lokiel's Rspeed units operate on both sides.

[chops]

go the twin cooler, they are a bit more expensive but they are excellent. My car gets a pretty hard time at the track and even at the hot track day in Feb it didn't overheat. By the time you muck around with a seperate oil coiler the cost difference won't be much

Or go for the massive radiator like in Hellmun's car and have zero cooling issues

[Lokiel]

So doing a bit of digging around on the radiator front I've come to the conclusion that getting something in the 40mm thick range will be suitable for my uses and make life a whole lot easier for fitting too....

To go a level above the typical eBay $160 cheapie is desirable from a quality/reliability perspective and so far these are the contenders;
- Cooling pro ~$300
- Koyo 37mm ~$500 landed from the US
- Moshimoto 40mm ~$500 landed from the US
- PWR 40mm ~$800-900

Are there any other options out there I've missed that I should be considering?

What are people's experiences with these brands? (I've done a search and seen what threads there are, more interested in recent experiences)

These are two of the best but by the time you add S&H the PWR radiator's co$t doesn't look so bad:
Trackspeed Engineering $600 http://trackspeedengineering.com/product_info.php/products_id/83/osCsid/35025bjtcnjh6gpp98ssdi5t93
FM Crossflow Radiator $525 http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?stocknumber=09-10000

I thought I read that the Koyo 37mm radiator wasn't large enough for SEs and the 53mm version was preferred?
Keith Tanner from FM said that the SE's radiator is better than many aftermarket radiators so don't be tempted to fit a less efficient radiator - if you do, then make sure that you install ducting to ensure that you funnel as much air as possible through the radiator.

See http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,6535.0.html for a Koyo 53mm installation.

All aftermarket radiators will present problems so make sure you research this as much as possible before buying anything - needing to purchase slimline fans should be factored into the cost of a radiator if needed.

[Nevyn72]

These are two of the best but by the time you add S&H the PWR radiator's co$t doesn't look so bad:
Trackspeed Engineering $600 http://trackspeedengineering.com/product_info.php/products_id/83/osCsid/35025bjtcnjh6gpp98ssdi5t93
FM Crossflow Radiator $525 http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?stocknumber=09-10000

Those two would end up around the $700-800 mark landed, compared to ~$1250 shipped for the PWR twin-cooler.
All quite expensive options when you get right down to it, especially as you would need to spend more on other bits (like different fans) to actually use them....

I thought I read that the Koyo 37mm radiator wasn't large enough for SEs and the 53mm version was preferred?
Keith Tanner from FM said that the SE's radiator is better than many aftermarket radiators so don't be tempted to fit a less efficient radiator - if you do, then make sure that you install ducting to ensure that you funnel as much air as possible through the radiator.

See http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,6535.0.html for a Koyo 53mm installation.

I've spent most of the last 6 hours researching everything I can find on MX5 radiator replacement and the consensus is just the opposite on the Koyo!
Basically by the time you get to a level of performance where you get any benefit from going to the larger 53mm version you should be looking at one of the three options above anyway.

Also the SE rad was found to perform better than a cheapie eBay rad, not the better quality units.

All aftermarket radiators will present problems so make sure you research this as much as possible before buying anything - needing to purchase slimline fans should be factored into the cost of a radiator if needed.

I'm pretty much convinced that the Koyo 37mm is the best fit for my circumstances based on usage/quality/price and this will probably be what I end up getting. Only need to work out the most cost effective way of sourcing it.....

I've also found all the info needed to get it fitted, including which bits to bend to make it fit neatly!

[MrRevhead]

Many people have had good experiences with the ASI's.

52mm version, says it supports the SE as well:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ASI-Super-Cooling-52mm-aluminum-radiator-Mazda-Miata-MX5-98-05-/261145222770?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccd77de72&_uhb=1

More feedback/experiences here:

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=54049

Alternatively, if you want to stick with a Koyo, the plastic end tank versions are $250 delivered.

[tomli123001]

I just replaced mine with Koyo 37mm.
My feedback is below

- Excellent super easy direct swap fit. No clearance issues at all.
- thicker core and takes more fluid
- Looks beautiful

- However, the fins are less dense than on the SE.
- SE Radiator had this foam thing around to direct air. The aftermarket ones don't. Even with a cover plate in place, there is gaps in NB cars.
- I have installed an oil temp sensor in the oil filter relocation kit. The oil temperature did NOT drop in hard driving compared to before.
- I have no water temp gauge, so can not comment on the water temp. But the oil temp does tell part of the story.

Jason at MX5 plus spoke highly of the OEM SE radiator. They run it in its track NB car and car worked perfectly with no oil cooler or additional cooling parts. SE radiator is cheapest out all other OEM radiators also.

Maybe you can get another 10 years out of the car, but getting another SE OEM

[sailaholic]

Yup.... Morlock has a point.... Why not go oem.


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