Serious brake ducting, think.. Well i dont know haha

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Sat May 16, 2015 8:03 am

Magpie, at the moment I'm going for the Trackspeed ones

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat May 16, 2015 9:06 am

No problem Apu. I can order separately, almost did yesterday!

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat May 16, 2015 10:18 am

Andrew is happy to include some Singlular ones as part of this GB, they will increase the lead time by 3-4 weeks however as there are no stocks currently.

Dann

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat May 16, 2015 1:04 pm

Apu/Dann let me know I don't want to hold up the GB if they could take a while.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sun May 17, 2015 2:28 pm

I have got in contact with Ryan Passey of Singular Motorsports (what a pleasure) and he will arrange a quote for more. In addition looking at their end plates, same as Tim Janke uses.

ausbuoy · Postby **ausbuoy** » Sun May 17, 2015 2:47 pm

1. Apu (NB) - plate and duct kit
2. Dweezle (NB) - plate and duct kit
3. Lokiel (NB) - plate and duct kit
4. Magpie Singular Motorsports 3" Brake Duct kit
5. Ausbuoy (NA)-plate & duct kit.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sun May 17, 2015 2:52 pm

1. Apu (NB) - plate and duct kit
2. Dweezle (NB) - plate and duct kit
3. Lokiel (NB) - plate and duct kit
4. Ausbuoy (NA)-plate & duct kit

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Mon May 18, 2015 3:41 pm

OK, I'm sending a note to Andrew and find out what the cost for the plate and duct kit is, and will let you guys know how much to transfer to me.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue May 19, 2015 1:08 pm

Another thing to consider is the pressure loss in the brake ducts due to the flexible ducting. I'm trying to increase the volume of air in my current system so looking at the theroy.

Using a straight length of 3" pipe and 100kmh (511 ltrs/sec) as a baseline there is approx 13.5 inches Water pressure (0.5 psi) loss by using flexible ducting. This does not take into account the loss due to bends etc.

For a 1.5" straight pipe and 100 kmh (128 ltrs/sec) the loss is about 43 inches of water pressure loss (1.5 psi), again no accounting for bends.

So the theroy suggests that alone the increasing from 1.5" to 3" alone will flow more air and with less loss in pressure is a massive improvement. However changing from flexible (or as little as possible) to solid duct will give a benefit.

I have some stuff at home that can be used to test the theroy so maybe something to do next time at home, measure the pressure loss in my current brake duct setup.

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue May 19, 2015 1:10 pm

Dont you simply have brakes that arent capable enough on your car?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue May 19, 2015 1:15 pm

Brakes more than capable, NB8B with winmax W5's, this combination is more than enough for its power.

As mentioned previously the fade is sounding more like pad knockback than overheating, however more air over the brakes will not hurt and it could be a simple fix. Will use thermo paint in the future to see what temps the rotors are getting up to, in addition temp stickers on the calipers will give an idea of the caliper temp and hence effect on brake fluid.

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue May 19, 2015 1:17 pm

Dude, you have stock brakes.. How.. even?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue May 19, 2015 5:27 pm

NitroDann not trying to tell you how to suck eggs but tire grip has a very big influence on how fast a car stops, you can have the best brake setup in the world but it will only stop as fast as the tires allow. What does set a brake system apart is how well it manages heat, this includes the rotors, calipers and fluid.

What are the issues with stock NB8B brakes that you see? Yes they are single piston floating types, it is a simple system, well developed and a mature. A multipiston caliper has more chances of piston failure (there are more of them) however do spread the force over the pad more evenly hence more 'grip'. In addition the risk of a slider bolt jamming is removed in a multipot caliper and possibly pad knockback reduced due to the more pistons.

Notwithstanding the brake caliper type, the amount of force generated by the calipers needs to be matched to the grip of the tire.

It is very possible to overbrake a car, to date I see no reason why I should change from the NB8B's. However, I do play around with pad types, cooling and fluids to get the most out of what I have.

Trackphotos · Postby **Trackphotos** » Tue May 19, 2015 5:39 pm

Seems like it should be fine to me. You've got more track-oriented pads, on larger rotors than mine, in a car that weighs less. On board footage doesn't show any huge difference in braking distance. Speed difference is there but not a huge amount, but I've never experienced pads or fluid overheating in my car.

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue May 19, 2015 5:45 pm

The only way to increase braking torque is disk diameter, friction materials and pad pressure, thats true, but thats not the issue you have it is?

The stock brakes are hopeless because they dont have enough surface area or mass for adequate cooling and the calipers are exceptionally flexible, they also have shitty pad selection for anyone taking it seriously because few and far who want serious pads would bother using them on OEM calipers. Both of these makes it very hard to consistantly brake at the threshold just below your tyres torque capability.

They are also incredibly cost inefficient for these reasons stated above.