The right brakes for a Track day NA

[Trackphotos]

If you need more power than your opposition to be competitive, you aren't someone sponsors want anyway. If all you want to do is go fast, an MX5 is the wrong choice to start with. The entire point is that it's gutless and takes skill to get around a track quickly. Maximum corner speed and latest braking are key to driving a slow car fast, pouring money into it to make it as fast in a straight line as a stock S15, say, is just silly.

[Dan]

^ Yeh, that.

Thanks guys for all your replies.
There is a lot of good information in there.

Dan, what sort of brakes are you running?

I run the stock Brakes with DBA generic rotors using Carbotech XP12 on the front and XP8 on the rear.

I’ve been really happy with them and I put down my thoughts on the XP12’s in my garage thread here (viewtopic.php?f=57&t=53973&start=165#p849502), since I posted that review I had a look at the rotors when the pads were replaced after 10 track days and they don’t look like they are worn down too much so I've left them on as they should be good for another set of pads.

The NC’s brake setup is bigger than any previous model so it’s not really comparable but looking around the paddock at events there are a lot of quick cars even ones with a bunch of power mods that run the NB brakes with aggressive pads.

[joe4agze]

All good information guys.
Thanks Dan i did not realize your car was a NC so yes hard to compare.

Everything is a balance and at the moment i feel as though the next thing that needs to be balanced is the brakes there way over due for a refresh so im at this point trying to decide that since i have to do a refresh what do i refresh to.
I want a combination that will give me confidence now and later when i increase power. Lets say max power goal is 140wkws.
I understand power maybe one of the last things to add but im also in this for the fun of it and on that straight and out of the corners im just craving some extra power which i know the car can take as it is sticking like glue to the track at the moment it just needs that power to extend to the grip limit.

I guess with saying that some people might just say well your not going into and or around that the corner fast enough in the first place which is probably true but that brings me back to confidence in the brakes.

From all of this i think that the brakes would have to be at least Nb8a spec all round with good pads right?

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[Trackphotos]

NB8A brakes might be a decent upgrade for a stock-powered NA6, but once you start adding power you'll be going faster than I do on stock brakes in my NB8A, and I have found the limit of mine. Stock rotors, stock calipers, QFM A1RM pads. Last club day they survived all day, right up until my last flying lap where they gave out on the final corner. Fortunately they cooked toward the end of that braking zone, because I kept it on line and set a PB lap. Maybe that means I need to carry more speed in more often, dunno. Either way, back in the pits they were pouring a decent amount of smoke out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaE6fi-5wW8

Cooling ducts would probably be enough to keep them going, but I'm still running stock power. A 140kw NA is going to be going a good bit quicker than I am heading into braking zones, and the weight difference between the cars isn't all that much. I'm thinking of upgrading to NB8B brakes now, I don't think NB8A brakes are what you're looking for if you have that power level in mind.

[Magpie]

Close one can of worms and open another one (pads)...

For more brake theory/discussion read this thread http://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/anyone-have-any-brake-questions-81577/

Your power estimate is about where mine is. I'm running NB8B calipers, DBA T3 rotors, brake ducts with Winmax W6.5's on the front and W3's on the rear. However I'm still to get as fast as Trackphoto's, I'm very close now Just need more seat time to drive the car faster, however my last session at QR with only using 5/6 gear and no more than 6,000 rpm I was within 0.5 secs of my previous PB!

Money maybe better spent on alignment/driver training, however if the brakes don't give you confidence then no amount of training will help. Don't fall into the trap of change/change/change, I did.

[madjak]

If your existing rotors are still in good condition, just slap in some new race pads event just in the front and have fun. At this stage your brakes won't be the limiting factor it will be you.

Once you've got a feel for it then decide. If after the first event you know you need larger rotors, you can upgrade them and keep your existing NA6 calipers and pads.

The reason I suggest SS lines, is not really for feel, is that if your NA6 was like mine the rubber lines aren't in the greatest of condition. Throw in some very hard braking and lots of heat and the chance of failure is increased.

I went straight from NA6 rotors to Wilwoods as I didn't want to add the extra weight when adding larger rotors. Plus I found with high friction pads the rotor wear was high so I went for the cheapest largest rotors I could get (11.75"). That wasn't exactly a cheap exercise though but will pay for itself over the next few years in pad wear and rotor cost savings.

[MattR]

Good pads - a good raod orinetated pad, I like Hawk HPS in mine, others like different

Fresh fluid - Penrite Sin, or whatever it is called now. Easy to get, cheap and good. i use it in my MX and also used it in my racing 240Z, never had a problem with fluid boiling on the road or track

Check the calipers are in good condition - if the brakes work as they should you are OK, but at pad changes make sure you use the proper grease on the pins and everything looks and works as it should and no leaks.

Swap rubber brake hoses for stainless/braided kit, pretty cheap and will improve the feel of the brakes

Drive the ring out of the car on th etrack and come back with a smile.

Don't overthink stuff, it will only lead to headaches.

That is all you need.

Don't overthink it. Upgrade pads and fluid and save your dollars for later when, and if you do actually need to worry about bigger brakes.

The size of the brakes are fine and a good pad choice that suits your driving style will give you the confidence you need.

I thrash the ring out of my little NA6 at the Queensland club trackdays and there aren't too many cars that outbrake me and i only use standard brakes, slotted rotors because they were cheaper than non slotted when i replaced them, with hawk HPS pads. I only use the Hawks because i like them and have used Hawk pads in a variety of cars and compounds over many years and they seem to suit my driving style.

[joe4agze]

Ok i think the general consensus appears to be standard rotors and hawk hps pads.
I'll will replace rotors and confirm the calipers in good working order and re-grease the slides.
Ill replace the brake hoses with braided ones and slap on the hawk hps.
Thanks all for all the assistance.

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[joe4agze]

Oh and i ment Hawk HP plus pads. ;-)

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[ndragun]

Hate to add another option after you've come to your conclusion... but I think for stock brakes, QFM have a range of track-spec pads that are absolutely top-notch, and are always underlooked - presumably because distribution isn't great, so they're not as readily available as bigger brands. But I was given a range of compounds to try years and years ago (I went to uni with the son of QFMs owner Charles Kalnins). From memory they were coded A1RM, COMP3 and COMP?? (maybe 5 or 7, can't remember... too long ago!) and they were superb.

Apologies if I've got those codes wrong, but contact them and see what they have;
http://qfm.com.au/page/3/Contact

[Magpie]

No problems from me with the A1RM's I used them both on and off the track when the car was a stock NA6. Heard good things about the QFM other track pads but never used them personally.

[joe4agze]

Thanks ndragun.
Ill look them up.

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[sailaholic]

Brakes direct at QFM stockist and have great prices and shipping speeds.


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