Patchy's Fawlty Towers risk management. Enter at own risk

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:33 am

Broken beaver panel.....oooops rear garnish

and a fixed one

Pity about the Eunos badge. But all things considered. I'm not taking it off. far to worried about breaking the panel

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 12:26 pm

Before

And after

Took about 2 .5 hrs to swap over the tops on frame . Hard to believe both tops are 10AE. But the one that came off was certainly in bad shape. Not sure what I can do about the rips.
Any tips Are welcome

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:02 pm

Looks great!

Rips in the old top or new one?

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:17 pm

New top has no rips. I'm trying to avoid getting new rips in the new top.

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:36 pm

Drive it more than once a month.

Also make sure the rib in the frame is swinging out of the way as you close the roof and there's nothing sharp that's cutting the roof from the inside.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 6:53 pm

The rib is the same as the rear cross part of the frame?

Cam belts should be up for next weekend.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 6:55 pm

BD sports is a blast from the past. I remember they had a club Dyno day about 15 years ago. Do they still exist?

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:58 pm

I thought the same, they still have a website although it hasn't been updated for a long time.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Oct 10, 2015 5:12 pm

Can belt & associated bits installed.

That's still the old belt in case you're wondering

Put some liquid gold into it too with spark plugs & filter.
Runs real sweet now.

Unfortunately I ripped out the water sensor connector & some other hose while using the breaker bar to open the crank bold.
Duhhhhhh.....

This is the offending hose end.

It comes out of that black thing below

But I have no clue where it is supposed to lead to.
Any ideas?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Oct 30, 2015 1:57 pm

Ok so Patchy is running seriously rich.

Ive just ordered a new oxygent sensor. should be here in about 2 weeks.

the other thing is, the spring inside the AFM was adjusted about 10 years ago to make it run leaner together with a crystal soldered into the ECU to raise the RPM to 7400 or something. I don't reacall the exact number. Of course the black cap on the AFM was never sealed properly when it was replaced. so it needs some cleaning inside the spring mechanism underneath the black cap. But I'll wait until the O2 sensor is fitted before I start playing with the spring tension again.

The original ECU got submerged in rainwater & shat itself a while back. So its running on a stock standard ECU now without a Brock harmoniser....errr I mean crystal.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Nov 07, 2015 8:38 am

Patchy stopped dead. Will not restart.
Initial thoughts were fuel relay or pump as I couldn't hear it hissing. Checked the pump wiring S it's been rewired in the past. Then got back to basics

Ok plenty of spark
Fuel pump works when bypassing the relay through the diagnostic box. But it doesn't start. Should it start? Which would mean the relay..... Excep I have petrol. Spark plugs are definitely wet

O2 sensor? Totally flocked?
Anything else?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Sat Nov 07, 2015 11:59 am

I'd be checking leads and coils - be 1000% sure you are getting spark on all four as bad leads can make it hard or unable to start.

G

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Sat Nov 07, 2015 12:02 pm

US O2 sensor shouldn't cause non-starting - could be the black Fuel Inj relay in the engine bay fuse box or may be the fuel pump relay under the driver side dash. But first check all the fuses are ok, especially the big fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

FWIW:

93_Clubman wrote:Re: engine cranks over normally but wont start-cold:
Checked the Rod's Enthusiast's Shop Manual Troubleshooting section:
Engine cranks normally, but doesn't start:
Damp sparkplug leads;
Dampness in sparkplug wells;
Sparkplugs in poor condition;
Fuel, ignition or control system malfunction (establish that plugs are sparking & fuel is reaching engine);
Very low engine compression;
Blocked exhaust; &
No fuel.
Also checked the Haynes Troubleshooting section but it doesn't really add anymore value.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Nov 07, 2015 1:47 pm

gslender wrote:I'd be checking leads and coils - be 1000% sure you are getting spark on all four as bad leads can make it hard or unable to start.

G

Leads are only a few weeks/months old. However I will check all of the as you suggest.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Nov 07, 2015 1:54 pm

93_Clubman wrote:US O2 sensor shouldn't cause non-starting - could be the black Fuel Inj relay in the engine bay fuse box or may be the fuel pump relay under the driver side dash. But first check all the fuses are ok, especially the big fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

FWIW:
93_Clubman wrote:Re: engine cranks over normally but wont start-cold:
Checked the Rod's Enthusiast's Shop Manual Troubleshooting section:
Engine cranks normally, but doesn't start:
Damp sparkplug leads;
Dampness in sparkplug wells;
Sparkplugs in poor condition;
Fuel, ignition or control system malfunction (establish that plugs are sparking & fuel is reaching engine);
Very low engine compression;
Blocked exhaust; &
No fuel.
Also checked the Haynes Troubleshooting section but it doesn't really add anymore value.

Ok.

Checked the fuses all Ok.1 looks a little corroded but swapped it around with another one.
Didn't check the relay under the drivers dash.....
Will check for dampness in spark plug wells.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk