Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

[MattR]

But they are expensive and need a good quality crimping tool.

The crimping tool is cheap, (regardless of what plug you use you'll need a crimping tool) the crimps on Deutsch pins are almost idiot proof, and the plugs are soooo easy to depin/repin. I'm actually pretty sure you can get Deutsch pins that are either circular or regular crimps...

I think theres little to no reason to use anything else. You might even find the engine builder/tuner will use Deutsch as well. Most motorsport applications use Deutsch wherever possible.

I've seen MAC valves come with 1 end of a Deutsch plug already terminated and fitted, so it might not be a bad idea.

My engine builder only uses Deutsch plugs. I bought a kit for the rest of my car, about $250 for a selection of plugs and terminals. The crimping tool is pretty important to get right as there are good crimpers and not so good crimpers.

As my car is being built from a bare shell I have the opportunity to start from scratch. That means Deutsch plugs and good quality wire, but not going to the scary lengths of hexagonal wire like used in F1 and other high end race cars. I will also be using circuit breakers instead of fuses for most circuits and all within reach of me strapped in the seat.

[ManiacLachy]

While I didn't make the dodgy day, I did do some work.

I'm still frustrated by my suspension, I've made many adjustments recently, and the situation is improving slightly but it still clunks and crashes and I'm quite fed up! I've noticed that the driver's side setup compared to the passenger side should result in a higher ride because of the geometry of the dirver's side setup. But on the ground the heights are the same. The driver's side is the side currently with the biggest issues.

I don't have adjustable endlinks, so I know at my lowered height, the swaybar is having some influence on my suspension. I decided to remove the bar, maybe it was impacting something, clunking, or just loading up and causing me to bottom out?

Lo-and-behold, after a few drives to settle the driver's side is now ~1cm higher than the passenger I'm not sure how this happened, as I'd expect the influence to be even. Maybe the bar isn't straight, or maybe it was offset? Anyway - I think this is a contributer to my issues. I haven't had a chance to even out the shocks to see how ride is without the bar yet. I'll try to get the weels off again this afternoon and fix it up.

Obviously there is some impact to handling without the rear bar - it'll be fine in DD activities, but will likely understeer if I try to attack any corners. I've ordered the last pair of 949 endlinks from Mania so I can put the bar back in ASAP (after I check it for straightness). 949 are out of stock, no ETA due to a supplier issue I'm told, but when they're back in I will get another pair for the front bar ... and a few other bits while I'm at it

[Magpie]

We missed you at dodgy day ManiacLachy, however we did do another car's springs just to ensure we had a job that would take the whole day again

Hopefully you can make the next one, rumours are in December with a twist.

[ManiacLachy]

A few updates recently...

Suspension. I have bitched quite a bit about my HSD coilovers, I have had them in for a year and never really been happy with them, in particular the rears knock about noisly, are very crashy over bumps. I have removed them once and reset them, and made adjustments many times in attempt to get them right. But even on at their best, they've still been horrible.

I recently removed the rearsway bar, balanced out my shock lengths and pre-load, and the setup was much better than it'd been previously. Still plenty of knocking about, but not quite as crashy. Though due to not having a rear bar the handling was compromised slightly, I wanted it back in, so I bought a set of 949 Racing adjustable links from Mainia. The ride wasn't perfect, about what it was without the bar though, still lots of noises from the back though.

Last week the car went in for a service at Autmotive Plus, and Jeff said that on the test ride it sounded like the rear shocks were loose, so he checked all the bolts and nuts but everything was secure. I've emailed Otomoto, the Australian HSD distributer, and he's agreed to take the shocks in for service under warranty even though the 1 year warranty has lapsed (I thought we got an automatic 2 year warranty under Australian Consumer Law, but I didn't need to press it).

So this weekend I removed the rear shocks and reinstalled the stock Bilsteins. I actually laughed out loud the first speed bump I came to. The ride was SO MUCH BETTER! Oh my god! Its worth having the 4WD ride height to be able to go over bumps with moderate pace and not crash and clunk! I adjusted the front shocks to a taller height to match the rears somewhat, but I'm still at a hell of a rake



If the serviced shocks are still horrible, I will have to look for another solution. Either back to stock shocks, or buy some replacements.

While in at Auto +, I had them install the Thompson Automotive Oil Filter Relocation unit, and the Flyin Miata Oil Cooler. I bought both from The American a couple of weeks ago. Mostly I just wanted the Relocation unit, but an oil cooler couldn't hurt either, and the package price was pretty good considering Thompson aren't making the unit any more.

The oil filter fits just underneath the BOV, I might see if I can find a elbow bend silcone hose to move it out of the way slightly though.



Incase you weren't aware, the FM cooler mounts to the steereing rack.


Jeff had to cut a hole in the splash tray to fit the cooler, that's not too bad, as without a hole the cooler wouldn't see much air flow, but clearly it's a bit vulnarable like this. I will need to chanel my inner Lokiel and fab up a duct, or at the very least fit some mesh over it to protect it from rocks and debris.



And finally, I got my Bear Hooks. These are fantastic. I only managed to install the rear this weekend, while doing the shocks. I think I'll need to remove the splash gaurd to properly access the bolts for the front hook, and I ran out of time on Saturday.

Bonus photo of the work space with Hobbes keeping me company

[tomli123001]

Thomson oil filter relocation kit?
I tried to look up on their site, but they have stopped making them now.

[ManiacLachy]

Correct. They had an EOI a while ago depending on the number of interested parties, but the final price to reproduce was going to be a lot higher than it used to be and noone was keen. I doubt they'll ever make them again, which is a shame. I got this one second/third hand from the forum.

[tomli123001]

Correct. They had an EOI a while ago depending on the number of interested parties, but the final price to reproduce was going to be a lot higher than it used to be and noone was keen. I doubt they'll ever make them again, which is a shame. I got this one second/third hand from the forum.

I had it on my last SE with similar set up. However, I did not encounter the problem of the filter just under the BOV.


I think the relocation kit can be installed a bit further up to the front.

[ManiacLachy]

My Throttle Body Inlet is made by NitroDann, and it looks as though the BOV port is a little lower down the arc than yours was. I think the filter is in the same spot as yours is, but because the BOV port is a little further along it's now over the top of the filter.

Either way, it's not a big issue. Removing the BOV to reach the filter is much easier than removing a wheel and snaking my arm up along side the engine.

[tomli123001]

My Throttle Body Inlet is made by NitroDann, and it looks as though the BOV port is a little lower down the arc than yours was. I think the filter is in the same spot as yours is, but because the BOV port is a little further along it's now over the top of the filter.

Either way, it's not a big issue. Removing the BOV to reach the filter is much easier than removing a wheel and snaking my arm up along side the engine.

Totally agree. But I can not find any now for my SP sadly. I do not want other fire wall mount kits either.

[ManiacLachy]

Maybe check out the Works Engineering unit? I know a few people have used them. Apu on here is the distributor and Mania sell them I beleive.

[ManiacLachy]

Front tow hook installed! Took me far longer than other people have reported, I just had issues getting good access to the bolts, even with the splash tray removed. Also, I installed mine on the passenger side, but I'm seeing everyone else did theirs on the driver's side - is there any reason why?

[speed]

Nice. I also wondered why others have put on the drivers side.
If I had a set they'd both be on the passenger side ;)

[The American]

If you are steering the tow vehicle, I prefer to be looking out from behind the point the car is being towed from, rather than offset. That's my reason for going drivers side at the front.

[speed]

If you are steering the tow vehicle, I prefer to be looking out from behind the point the car is being towed from, rather than offset. That's my reason for going drivers side at the front.

Well there you go. An obvious reason that i hadn't considered.
Thank you sir

[ManiacLachy]

I only did passenger side because the rear is passenger side and it would match. But being inline makes a bit of sense too!