Patchy's Fawlty Towers risk management. Enter at own risk

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Mon Sep 25, 2017 3:40 pm

that would be great....thank you.

will neet to research on how to run 2 adjustable runners......

Alex 2550 · Postby **Alex 2550** » Mon Sep 25, 2017 4:40 pm

no worries mate,
ill get on to it for you, my calipers are on loan but should be back in the next couple days.
im going off the quinn build a fair bit and ill be running 10mm of lift with standard NA8 pistons so with a 60thou shave i should be at 10.5:1 and no where near hitting the pistons however i would bet if i snapped a timing belt the valves would have an intimate relationship with the pistons. i don't really believe that a gates racing belt is much better than a standard one but for small difference in price ill grab one even if it only makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
i will down the track change out the pistons and rods to make more use of what i have (and more driveable) however i don't know if that will be a set of much higher comp pistons and corillo rods or just NB8B gear.
E85 is not an option for me because i can't buy it anywhere near me so 98 will be my limiting factor for now.
i can't wait to see Patchy up and running on this setup of yours.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:18 pm

StanTheMan wrote:The head is 134.40 mm thick.....

Ive still got to get my head around these massive head shaves of 1.5mm..... This would bring the head down to 132.90.. which is like 0.7mm thinner that what Mazda recommend?

can someone spell this out for me.....is it safe ?

These guys like Quinn taking 2mm off are obviously ignoring the minimum recommendations....

Mine is 2.2mm off but that is a BP-05. Is it safe? Everything enginewise is safe until it's not... and then you know!

To fix the belt tension I'm running my EWP blank off plate with the idler moved inwards 1 or 2mm. The tensioner bolts through the water pump to the block so it's harder to move. There is a Kia idler that is a couple of more mm in diameter that you can use but I don't know the part number. Of coarse moving the idler also changes the timing, as well as the decking of the head so you need to account for that.

In terms of valve to piston clearances it all gets very tight especially with big cams. Make sure you double check clearances on everything and mark on the timing wheels where the limit is so that when you tune it you don't move the timing into interference range. For reference I'm only 3-4 degrees from interference in all directions (it's scribed into the timing wheel). This combination is really bad if you are running a loose timing belt (due to the head deck) and the engine backfires because of the overlap on the big cams. My engine skipped a tooth whist cranking and I was extremely lucky my battery was low enough that the engine just stopped on the valve rather than bent it.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Sep 30, 2017 5:17 pm

Todays effort.

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Ran out of porting abrasive. So Started cleaning the Bowl. Now that takes time & patience. could probably spend another whole day to get it perfect. but my fingers just not happy about it.

not sure if it makes any difference or not. but i hear its good for avoiding detonation

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:59 pm

got the jack of cleaning tbe head....

i dont know what posessed me.

thats a mammoth task to start....and i can assure. after today....not touchig the inatake for a while....

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