Into the rubber gear...

[Rocky]

With my 2001 build NB8B now just past 65,000 klms but 17 years old, I am starting to think about what work might need to be done in the coming years.
It has never been serviced by the local Dealer as I had many bad experiences with them in earlier decades and am reluctant to trust them with such an important job. I have done all the oil changes / filter changes myself. It does need a fuel filter replacement.
To my knowledge, there is no local garage that specialises in Mazdas.
That also means it has never had an "electronic tune-up" in it's life.
Running time for that mileage has been 99% open road.
I have been thinking that, given the age of the vehicle, I should probably replace all the hoses and belts before 100,000 klms - which at the present rate of useage, is about 6 years ahead.
As far as I can tell, they are all still in good condition (The bonnet has always stayed open after every run to prevent heat build-up in the engine bay cooking the rubber/plastic parts).
What do the Forum experts think about this. It will be an expensive exercise that will require me to drive the 600klms to have it done in Brisbane by Grand Prix Mazda (people I trust).
Waste of money and time?

[hks_kansei]

Regarding the drive belts, they're relatively easy to do at home, if a bit fiddly.
Personally, i'd just carefully look at them for any small cracks or dryness, if they look ok then i wouldnt bother replacing them.

Coolant hoses I would probably consider changing, since after 17 years they'll likely be nearing the end of their life, especially the small ones near the heater core, and heater pipe, since they're close to the exhaust and spend most of their life being cooked.

While doable at home, it's an absolute arse of a job to change them all, especially the tiny ones under the throttle body, and under the exhaust etc.
I would really recommend just getting a workshop to do them (also have them replace the O ring for the heater bypass pipe under the exhaust, it's terrible to get to if it splits)

When one of my hoses split and I had the whole lot replaced it cost me around $800 from memory, which was parts and labour (some of the hoses arent cheap, and there's a lot of labour time spent getting them on etc)

personally I don't like the silicone hoses, I much prefer the rubber ones (they lasted 17 years on mine before splitting, why change something that;s proven) however the silicone sets are cheaper (although I dont believe they include the small ones for throttle body etc)



regarding the electronic tune up, there's not really much to do on them, most of what Mazda do is just check for any error codes and clear them if present.
Any tunes things like fuel and timing are locked and cannot be changed (well, without also changing to a new ECU, which isnt worth the hassle unless you want to start modifying the engine)


Fuel filter is easy to do at home as well, a new one is about $50 from mazda, and can be fitted in about 20mins (including time taken to jack up the car etc)
just be very careful not to break the odd "quick release" clips mazda used on the NB instead of the more standard hose and clamp fitting of the NA.

[manga_blue]

Personally at 17 years I'd just baseline the whole car again myself. All new belts, hoses, filters, all new oils in diff, engine, gearbox and also a few special rubbers like the firewall seal, the lower door bushes and the inner and outer gearbox boots. If fluid comes out blackish from brakes then I'd be thinking about rebuilding all cylinders. If it comes out blackish from the clutch then I'd think about new master and slave. For me it would be 3 or 4 days of pottering but it would give me peace of mind for the next 4 or 5 years.

If mileage was up around 150,000 then I'd be thinking about all the control arm bushes, shocks and engine and diff mounts as well.

[ricky-pinky]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. But I would change the petrol filter.

[The Zork]

I would include all rubber perishables including window and body seals and perhaps all bushes. Gather all of them over time and make it a fun weekend. Do it yourself and enjoy the fun of restoring your baby. Remember that some of the items will be hard to find at a future time. I did this on one of my cars and I can't tell you how happy it made when it was done.

[Mr Morlock]

I am with ricky pinky. If you want to spend money thats easy but 70,000 is low KLMS. If the car is garaged then UV is not a great concern and rubber can be checked by feel and seeing its condition. I also would not consider driving 600klm to get an MX-5 serviced- it simply is not a super car its not high tech and a decent mechanic can do whats required for basic maintenance. I travel as short a distance as I can to get things done on cars but there are plenty of repairers in my area and its good to support them. I think that preventative maintenance can be taken too far. For aircraft you change things on fixed routines or in factories you might service a moulding machine at Xmas because a break down can be very expensive in lost production during the year but thats a different ball game. The service manual sets out routine maintenance and the car engineers are usually very conservative on check and change points. Do the services and thats a big plus- many people don't even do that.

I also don't think its worth getting it checked for tune unless a change is detected - i.e. power drop, hard starting poor economy etc.

The NB Mazda service and repair manual is a great bit of professional writing complete with problem solving techniques and it can always be offered to a mechanic if they want to check it out- most just know what to do.

[Rocky]

As always, lots of great advice there. All noted and copied for future reference.
The car HAS been 'babied' somewhat, having spent it's life in a darkened garage between runs on the highway, thus most of the external plastics/rubber are in very good condition.
I have always raised the bonnet after a run on all my cars as the amount of heat in the engine bay is significant. Consequently all the rubber and plastics look (and feel) good, but I know from experience that no matter what you do, they don't last forever.
I didn't plan to keep the car this long when I bought it, thinking that the ND would be the successor, but as I don't fancy the ND I'm starting to think that this one might "see me out" - hence the need to think about what it will need to keep it in top condition.

[Mr Morlock]

I dont fancy the ND either- if I go on with an MX-5 it will be an NC.

[manga_blue]

I am with ricky pinky. If you want to spend money thats easy but 70,000 is low KLMS.

70,000 is low for the parts that wear but 17 years is about the life of most of the rubber bits. You also need to consider your circumstances. Morlock lives in the city so is rarely far from a latte or a parts or repair shop. My car regularly tours through all that wilderness around the far South Coast, Snowy, Southern Monaro and Gippsland. Bursting a hose on something like the steep climb out of Talbingo towards Tumbarumba could cost me 2 or 3 days to sort out.

[project.r.racing]

just be very careful not to break the odd "quick release" clips mazda used on the NB instead of the more standard hose and clamp fitting of the NA.

This.

But I wouldn't be too worried. If I was replacing hoses, then I'd be replacing the 17yo spring clamps with stronger and newer screwdown clamps. Best to do the job once and right.

I would do all the suggested parts that have previously been spoken about. They are all simple jobs and any mechanic can do the jobs. Doesn't have to be a Mazda specialist or dealer. Just a mechanic you trust. The car in question isn't a overly advanced car.

[hks_kansei]

But I wouldn't be too worried. If I was replacing hoses, then I'd be replacing the 17yo spring clamps with stronger and newer screwdown clamps. Best to do the job once and right.

I'd suggest the same, but the NB quick release ones aren't the spring.clamps like the coolant pipes have, the fuel ones are a ridiculous plastic sleeve that clips into another plastic sleeve that slides over the filter fittings

Changing to worm clamps would need he hard lines on the car either cut off, or replaced with NA ones with a normal barb fitting.

[hks_kansei]

https://sites.google.com/site/redcapsmi ... eplacement

This shows the process (more for Rocky so he can gauge if it's something he wants to do)

And also shows the stupid NB fuel filter clips.

[bruce]

But Rocky lives in Rockhampton. So 17 years of heat and humidity would not be kind to rubber bits.

[manga_blue]

Hot enough to boil a monkey's bum.

[Rocky]

But Rocky lives in Rockhampton. So 17 years of heat and humidity would not be kind to rubber bits.

In most cases Bruce and Manga are spot on, but bear in mind that my car has lived a charmed life. Only nice cool highway runs, cool dark garage, and bonnet up after every run. Probably not a typical Central Queensland car subjected to constant high temps.
That said, rubber/plastic still has a finite lifespan and there are some bits that are close to and simply can't be protected from heat sources.