What have you done today/recently to your 5?

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sat Apr 13, 2019 5:09 pm

3gress. It looks like a design problem, maybe or maybe not exacerbated by over-tightening. It does not look like there's enough of the locking nut pressing on the surface of the cam gear. That means the pressure from the nut is concentrated into a pretty small area ... and therefore prone to failure. I think it should have had a nut with a broader flange or else a fairly thick high tensile flat washer under the nut.

3gress · Postby **3gress** » Sat Apr 13, 2019 8:46 pm

You're right mate, the cam gear nuts also have smaller diameter spring washers underneath that'd serve to concentrate the load into a small area.

MX5NBpsi, what mess? You know nothing of mess :wink:

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:37 am

3gress wrote:You're right mate, the cam gear nuts also have smaller diameter spring washers underneath that'd serve to concentrate the load into a small area.

MX5NBpsi, what mess? You know nothing of mess

Spring washers cannot be used when there's less than a full 360deg of seat.

3gress · Postby **3gress** » Sun Apr 14, 2019 12:36 pm

They're still as per factory, never modified or ham fisted.
They have a flat washer, spring washer and then nut. The flat washer has room around it enough to be another 1mm in diameter.

Adjusted by using spanner on cam hex between lobes and torqued to recommended settings, never had anything wedged in them or such. Less than 5k km on them.

Anyway, all sorted, will look to a pair of Maruha gears in the future. On to bigger and badder things :MOCHA_LES:

3gress · Postby **3gress** » Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:04 am

Oil pan seals replaced, new idler, tensioner, miscellaneous gaskets and seals, lash checked, fixed the cam gear issue.

Oil cooler lines rerouted to delete oil cooler as it is not really necessary with the efficent electric water pump keeping block temps in check.

Engine back in.

Booster delete/master mount plate test fitted.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:26 pm

I received a package today... They will be installed at the end of May

One of these

And 2 of these

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Fri Apr 19, 2019 2:12 pm

I have no idea what I'm looking at. Spell it out for the dumb kids at the back of the classroom please.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Apr 19, 2019 2:23 pm

ManiacLachy wrote:I have no idea what I'm looking at. Spell it out for the dumb kids at the back of the classroom please.

It is a Racepak Smartwire (PDM)
Output Capacity: 125 Amps
Current Consumption: 180 mA typical operation (<1 mA in shutdown mode)
Min/Max Power Supply: 8-20 Volts
Operating Power Supply: 12-16.
Inputs: 12 hardwired direct (voltage triggered (>2.7V) or ground triggered (<2.5V)
Outputs: 30 (8 outputs @ 20 Amps, 22 outputs @ 10Amps)
Response: 3.0 milliseconds max.

It has 2 x keypads as well.

Plus they also sent over a bluetooth VNet module

Red_Bullet · Postby **Red_Bullet** » Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:56 pm

Does it make your car go faster?

lonesailor · Postby **lonesailor** » Fri Apr 19, 2019 4:02 pm

I would suggest larger outside diameter ( and ideally somewhat thicker) washers to spread the clamping load and to be careful with the torquing , ensure they are clear of the radius on the outside

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat Apr 20, 2019 12:34 am

Red_Bullet wrote:Does it make your car go faster?

Actually yes it will by removing bad electrical connections! You would be surprised how much power you loose with electrical problems.

Red_Bullet · Postby **Red_Bullet** » Sat Apr 20, 2019 9:26 am

Magpie wrote:
Red_Bullet wrote:Does it make your car go faster?

Actually yes it will by removing bad electrical connections! You would be surprised how much power you loose with electrical problems.

Yep, voltage drop across connections in a real problem in low voltage systems. Of particular concern would be coil packs running at high duty cycles as the current is quite high. Good idea to run a nice fat 4mm^2 wire to the positive of coil packs to help overcome voltage drop. If they each have a peak current of around 4 amps, then in a 4 cylinder engine at high revs you have around 16 amps! 16 amps down a skinny little wire is not a good idea.

Injectors are less affected as they only pull about 1 amp each, BUT if they are supplied by any wiring that is shared with the coils then they will also suffer from the voltage drop in the shared conductor. Injectors are very non linear with variable voltages. Although the more drastic effects would be at low injector duty cycle where the injector latency period is a greater percentage of the whole pulse width.

Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Sat Apr 20, 2019 12:15 pm

Magpie,

Based on the still-shots of the linked videos, it looks like you'll also need a 14 year-old whizz-kid to get it installed and be able to use it

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat Apr 20, 2019 4:32 pm

Lokiel wrote:a 14 year-old whizz-kid to get it installed

I will be getting Whitey's Wiring to do the install. I'm not home often enough anymore and this is a big job.

Plan is to eventually transfer the loom to the shell.