NC2 6 speed. Disengage from first - sticks

[greenMachine]

Have you searched on the big board - if there is an issue, it should be talked about there. There could be something on here too, but I can't remember seeing anything. FWIW (not much ) I haven't heard of a generic issue with NC boxes, certainly not in later cars where you would expect the bugs to have been fixed - the ND gearbox problems spring to mind.

I'd point you at Deckspeed, who built and raced NCs extensively, but I believe Daniel has closed the doors. Targa Racing (Chris Gough) also track NCs, and would be the other source of track-informed advice. Not sure what Mania's experience is with NCs.

Those symptoms remind me of the failure of my NB 5-speed, which started sticking in 3rd, and got steadily worse until it broke. But that was in a hard worked track dríven car, and the problem only manifested itself after a hard workout on track.

[bruce]

Have you bled the air out of the clutch?
My Nissan box wouldn't go into first easily until I bled it.

[greenMachine]

If the clutch master is leaking, you should be able to see fluid escaping, most likely where the rod goes into the back of the m/c inside the car. I don't know if there is another seal on the rod itself to stop that escaping fluid leaking out - you'd probably smell it too, especially if the heater was in use.

If the slave cylinder is leaking, same same, even a smell of fluid perhaps (if taking a close look). It is usually obvious, because the escaping fluid catches the dirt, but if there is a rubber plug over the end of the slave, it could have a drain to allow the fluid to escape with little to show. See if you can dislodge the rubber plug, and check for moisture inside.

Either way, if there is a leak you should be seeing the reservoir losing fluid - have you had to top it up? If it has been bled, is not losing fluid, has been adjusted, the problem would appear to be on the other side of the slave - up to and including the gearbox. In which case, it might be time for a professional to have a look?

[greenMachine]

Are you using a bleeder with a non-return valve, or some other way of preventing air entering when you release the pedal between strokes? There's a lot of ways of skinning that cat, but air entering via the bleeder is a sure way of undoing the bleed. And yes, you bleed at the slave.

[93_Clubman]

Disengagement from first, the gear lever feels like it sticks. I adjusted the clutch pivot rod (method found the point where the slave locked then adjusted the clutch rod to the point where I could move the slave by hand) which seems to temporarily fixes the disengagement. The issue is intermittent. The only work done recently is a new slave was installed.

Suggest you return the aforementioned adjustment to the standard setting.

Also the clutch pedal feels inconsistent as well. When I push on the slave by hand (to check the bleeder valve is not blocked) the clutch pedal does lose its pressure ie just falls to the floor when i push on it. But if I manually return and then pump on it a few times its all good.

If the NC2 slave cylinder works as most slave cylinders do, then you shouldn't be able to push on the slave cylinder rod as at rest it's retracted, so you can only pull on it simulating the pushing effect of depressing the clutch pedal & compressing the hydraulic fluid.

"Have you bled the air out of the clutch?" Only via the slave. When I manually push on the slave rod should the clutch pedal lose pressure? Is that an indicator of air or bad clutch master cylinder?

Given you mention checking the bleeder valve was not blocked, by any chance did you bleed the clutch with the slave cylinder not fully in place, ie not mounted with the rod in contact with the clutch fork?
Something doesn't seem right with the clutch hydraulics, which if affecting the slave cylinder might be causing the disengagement from first issue.

When I manually push on the slave rod should the clutch pedal lose pressure?

If I'm interpreting your question correctly then the answer is 'no' as this the at rest position, which when then clutch pedal should be upright ready to be depressed thus ready to provide resistance when depressed due to compression of the hydraulic fluid.

[bruce]

Try re-bleeding. Cheaper to try than going to dismantle everything.